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You are here: Home / 16.2.7. Chihiros Doctor

16.2.7. Chihiros Doctor

16.2.7. Chihiros Doctor
16.2.7. Chihiros Doctor

Many planted aquarium photos from Europe show a little fan-like device in one corner. These are the “Chihiros Doctor” (the Twinstar Unit is very similar and does the same thing). The units are somewhat expensive ($73 to $110). This device supposedly controls algae. This device is nothing more than a “sneaky” way to use chemicals (namely hydrogen peroxide) to control algae. The device uses an electric current to generate what is basically hydrogen peroxide from water. And it has all the same problems that ALL algae chemical control methods have.

Aquarium with Chihiros Doctor
Aquarium with Chihiros Doctor

The “Chihiros Doctor” has some electrode wires in a fan-like arrangement. A current is passed from one set of wires to the other set of wires. This current produces largely hydrogen at one electrode and oxygen at the other electrode.

Chihiros Doctor
Chihiros Doctor

Some small portion of the oxygen is not present as bubbles of diatomic (O2, two atoms to a molecule). Rather this portion of the oxygen is present in the solution as monoatomic oxygen (a single atom of oxygen). This monoatomic oxygen can take a whole series of forms and is called many things. These names include “active” oxygen, monoatomic oxygen, hydroxyl radicals, oxygen radicals, “nascent” oxygen, and free radical oxygen. We’ll use the term hydroxyl radicals.

This is the equation that describes what happens when the hydroxide portion of the water molecule gives up an electron at the electrode of the Chihiros Doctor:

Chirhiros Nascent Oxygen

And in some cases this even produces hydrogen peroxide:

Chihiros Doctor:

These hydroxyl radicals are disinfectants. They denature any protein they encounter. When they get inside ANY cell, they can kill it. Algae have thinner cell walls than vascular plants, so they are killed more easily by the hydroxyl radicals. Unfortunately, the cells of the gills of the fish are even more sensitive than algae.

I cannot recommend these devices for any aquarium with fish in it. Slowly killing the cells in the gills of a fish is never a good idea. Putting this device in a plant-only aquarium is probably harmless and is probably a good way to waste money if you have a lot to spare. The device looks real space-age techie and gets a lot of comments.

But the fine hydrogen and oxygen bubbles this device produces float around the aquarium in a very distracting way.

Crytocara morriii OB Dolphin
Crytocara morriii OB Dolphin

Hydroxyl radicals can be produced at least four ways in an aquarium:

  • The Chihiros Doctor or the Twinstar can produce them by electrolysis
  • One can use a dosing pump to put small amounts of hydrogen peroxide into the aquarium
  • One can use a dosing pump to put small amounts of potassium permanganate into the aquarium
  • One can use a device called a Söchting “Oxydator”

ALL these four methods produce the same thing, namely hydroxyl radicals in the water. For all intents and purposes they are all equally bad.

Söchting Oxydator
Söchting Oxydator

Table of Contents

Toggle
    • Söchting “Oxydator”
    • Marketing Hype
    • Effect on Iron
    • More Information on Controlling Algae
  • 16.2. Controlling Algae in the Aquarium
  • 16.2.1. Controlling Algae in the Fish Only Aquarium
  • 16.2.2. Controlling Algae in the “High-Tech” Planted Aquarium
  • 16.2.3. Controlling Algae in the “Low-Tech” Planted Aquarium
  • 16.2.4. Algae Eaters
  • 16.2.5. The Algae “War”
  • Return to Algae Menu
Söchting “Oxydator”

The Söchting “Oxydator” is a device out of Germany that supposedly supplies an aquarium with “activated oxygen”. The device works by filling a container with hydrogen peroxide and sealing it with a special lid device. The container is then inverted in the tank. The lid, which is now the bottom of the container, has a small catalyst (probably a ferro-aluminosilicate) in it which very slowly decomposes the hydrogen peroxide and forms gaseous oxygen.

This oxygen gas rises in the container and displaces the hydrogen peroxide slowly over a two to four-week period. The displaced hydrogen peroxide very slowly exits into the aquarium. The displaced hydrogen peroxide then reacts with proteins in living things in the aquarium as the antiseptic that it is. It does the same thing as the Chihiros Doctor.

Flowerhorn Pearl King Kamfa
Flowerhorn Pearl King Kamfa
Marketing Hype

Correcting for poor translations, the marketing hype for these products is:

“The “Chihiros Doctor” is composed of a reactor, controlled by an external control unit, that releases active oxygen by electrolysis. It releases positive and negative ions and active trace elements. It acts on the water redox potential and promotes the growth of plants at the expense of the algae. Also destroys suspended algae, herpes virus, fungi, and pathogenic bacteria such as Aeromonas and E’ coli. It acts in a positive way on the skin, mucous membranes, gills, and gastrointestinal apparatus of fishes and shrimps.”

“The sterilizing factor of the Twinstar uses microbubbles to destroy the cell wall of green algae to inhibit their growth and is non-toxic and harmless to aerobic bacteria. Twinstar also promotes better aquatic plant growth by inhibition of green algae on plants.”

“Söchting Oxydators break down hydrogen peroxide into activated oxygen using a special catalyst. The activated oxygen decomposes particularly putrid matters and toxicants, thus improving the well-being of fish and plants. Due to the Oxydator’s oxidizing capacity, the water quality will be improved and harmful contaminants in the water will be neutralized. It is effective at fighting algae.”

Many will take these claims at face value. Sorry, 90% of this is simply snake oil marketing hype. One needs to be cautious here, especially with fish in the aquarium. Hydrogen peroxide kills the living cells in the gills of a fish. I cannot recommend these devices.

Mesoheros festae
Mesoheros festae
Effect on Iron

Any method that produces hydroxyl radicals in a planted aquarium will rapidly make any iron in the water column unavailable to plants. This will result in an iron deficiency in a planted tank. The only way around this is to add the iron to the substrate rather than the water column and to use a sand substrate. Obviously this will only work with rooted vascular plants.

More Information on Controlling Algae

There is a lot more information on how to control algae in these links:

16.2. Controlling Algae in the Aquarium

16.2.1. Controlling Algae in the Fish Only Aquarium

16.2.2. Controlling Algae in the “High-Tech” Planted Aquarium

16.2.3. Controlling Algae in the “Low-Tech” Planted Aquarium

16.2.4. Algae Eaters

16.2.5. The Algae “War”

Return to Algae Menu

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  • 1. Aquarium Basics
  • 1.1. Aquarium Beginner Guide
  • 1.1.1. The First Aquarium
  • 1.1.10. Plants and the New Hobbyist
  • 1.1.11. Ich
  • 1.1.12. How to Make Fish Thrive
  • 1.1.12.1. Guideline Example
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  • 1.1.14. Aquarium Maintenance
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  • 1.1.3. Fish Food
  • 1.1.4. Water Parameters
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  • 1.2. Falsehoods and Myths
  • 1.3. False Marketing Claims
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  • 1.5. Aquarium Options
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  • 1.7. Aquarium Slow Fish Deaths
  • 10. Diseases
  • 10.1. Diseases in General
  • 10.10. Black Spots
  • 10.11. Tapeworms
  • 10.12. Nematodes
  • 10.12.1. Camallanus
  • 10.12.2. Capillaria
  • 10.13. Pests
  • 10.13.1. Hydra
  • 10.13.2. Detritus Worms
  • 10.13.3. Planaria
  • 10.13.4. Aquarium Leeches
  • 10.13.5. Bryozoans and Stentors
  • 10.14. Fish Lice
  • 10.15. Dwarf Gourami Disease
  • 10.16. Graphite Disease in Bettas
  • 10.2. Skin Protozoans
  • 10.2.1. All Protozoans
  • 10.2.2. Ich
  • 10.2.2.1. Ich in Depth
  • 10.2.2.2. Ich Immunity
  • 10.2.2.3. Ich Medication
  • 10.2.2.4. Ich Medications in More Depth
  • 10.2.2.5. Ineffective Ich Medications
  • 10.2.2.6. Filtration of Ich
  • 10.2.2.7. Ich and Heat
  • 10.2.3. Velvet
  • 10.2.4. Epistylis
  • 10.2.5. Chilodonella and Costia
  • 10.2.6. Tetrahymena
  • 10.2.7. Cryptobia
  • 10.3. Bacterial
  • 10.3.1. Skin Ulcers
  • 10.3.10. Red Mouth in Goldfish
  • 10.3.11. Treating Bacteria
  • 10.3.2. Mouth Rot
  • 10.3.3. Duck Lips
  • 10.3.4. Fin Rot
  • 10.3.5. Saddleback
  • 10.3.6. Red Blotches
  • 10.3.7. White Eyes
  • 10.3.8. Popeye
  • 10.3.9. Red Gills
  • 10.4. Fish Tuberculosis
  • 10.4.1. Fish TB in Depth
  • 10.4.2. Mycobacteriosis in Humans
  • 10.5. Hexamita
  • 10.6. Flukes
  • 10.7. Fish Saprolegnia
  • 10.8. Lymphocystis
  • 10.9. Anchor Worms
  • 11. Fish Disease Symptoms
  • 11.1. Hole in the Head
  • 11.1.1. Hexamita and HITH
  • 11.1.2. Spots on Head
  • 11.10. White Skin Blotches
  • 11.11. Red Skin Blotches
  • 11.12. Neon Disease
  • 11.13. Slime Coat
  • 11.14. Scaly Skin
  • 11.15. Fish not Eating
  • 11.16. Aggression
  • 11.17. Black Death
  • 11.18. Black Head Syndrome
  • 11.19. Gas Bubble Disease
  • 11.2. White Poop
  • 11.3. Malawi Bloat
  • 11.4. Dropsy
  • 11.5. Hollow Belly
  • 11.6. Swim Bladder
  • 11.7. Shimmying
  • 11.8. Twirling
  • 11.9. Spinal Deformities
  • 12. Treatment
  • 12.1. Basics of Treatment
  • 12.10. The Shotgun Approach
  • 12.2. Treatments Summary
  • 12.3. Quarantine Tanks
  • 12.4. Ineffective Medicines
  • 12.4.1. “Natural” Aquarium Medications
  • 12.4.2. Salt
  • 12.4.3. Aquarium Dyes
  • 12.4.4. Formalin
  • 12.4.5. Antiseptics
  • 12.4.6. Furan and Sulfa
  • 12.4.7. Quinine
  • 12.5. Fish Don’t Drink
  • 12.6. Sterilization
  • 12.7. Making Medicated Food
  • 12.8. Euthanizing a Fish
  • 12.9. Avoiding Disease
  • 13. Stocking
  • 13.1. Stocking Opinions
  • 13.2. Calculating Stocking Ratio
  • 13.3. Lifespan of a Fish
  • 14. Equipment
  • 14.1. UV Sterilizers
  • 14.1.1. UV in Depth
  • 14.1.2 Selecting a UV Unit
  • 14.10.Wood
  • 14.11. Fish Electrocution
  • 14.12. Silicone
  • 14.13. Aquarium Electric Cost
  • 14.14. Cleaning Old Aquariums
  • 14.15. Aquarium Aesthetics
  • 14.2. Substrates
  • 14.2.1. Sand
  • 14.2.2. Gravel
  • 14.2.3. Buffering Substrates
  • 14.2.4. Anaerobic Myth
  • 14.2.4.1. Anaerobic Science
  • 14.3. Rocks
  • 14.4. Lights
  • 14.4.1. Light Spectrums
  • 14.4.2. Obsolete Standards
  • 14.5. Piping
  • 14.6. Pumps
  • 14.7. Overflow Devices
  • 14.8. Aquarium Heaters
  • 14.9. Wavemakers
  • 15. Planted Aquarium
  • 15.1. Planted Aquariums in Depth
  • 15.10. Hybrid Planted Aquariums
  • 15.11. Many Fish Many Plants
  • 15.12. Propagating Plants
  • 15.13. Hau Planted Aquariums
  • 15.14. Low Tech Planted Aquariums
  • 15.15. Sterilizing Plants
  • 15.16. Natural Aquarium
  • 15.17. Father Fish Aquariums
  • 15.2. Fish
  • 15.3. Fish Limitations
  • 15.4. Types of Planted Tanks
  • 15.4.1. Planted Aquarium Examples
  • 15.5. Aquarium Fertilizing
  • 15.5.1. Ready Made Fertilizers
  • 15.5.2. Fertilizer Programs
  • 15.5.3. Estimative Index
  • 15.5.4. NH4 and Tabs Fertilizer
  • 15.5.5. DIY Epiphytic Fertilizer
  • 15.5.6. Fish Food Fertilizer
  • 15.5.7. DIY Fertilizers
  • 15.6. Carbon Dioxide
  • 15.6.1. Low Tech CO2
  • 15.6.2. KH pH CO2 Relationships
  • 15.6.3. High Tech CO2 Systems  
  • 15.6.4. CO2 From Food
  • 15.6.5. Liquid CO2
  • 15.6.6. Measuring CO2
  • 15.7. Plant Substrates
  • 15.8. Walstad Aquarium
  • 15.9. High Tech Planted Aquariums
  • 16. Aquarium Algae
  • 16.1. Algae Biology
  • 16.10. Water Mold
  • 16.10.1. White Fuzz
  • 16.11. Slime Mold
  • 16.12. Red Spot Algae
  • 16.13. A Few Oddities
  • 16.2. Controlling Algae
  • 16.2.1. Algae in Fish Only Tanks
  • 16.2.2. Algae in High Tech Tanks
  • 16.2.3. Algae in Low Tech Tanks
  • 16.2.4. Algae Eaters
  • 16.2.5. The Algae War
  • 16.2.6. Chemical Algae Control
  • 16.2.7. Chihiros Doctor
  • 16.3. Thread Algae
  • 16.4. Blue-Green Algae
  • 16.5. Black Beard Algae
  • 16.6. Staghorn Algae
  • 16.7. Aquarium Green Water
  • 16.8. Brown Algae
  • 16.9. Green Spot Algae
  • 17. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 17.1. Native Water Chemistries
  • 17.10. Aquarium Shrimp
  • 17.11. Discus
  • 17.11.1. Discus Husbandry
  • 17.11.2. Filtration for Discus
  • 17.11.3. Water for Discus
  • 17.11.4. Food for Discus
  • 17.11.5. Discus Pheromones
  • 17.11.6. Breeding Discus
  • 17.11.7. Discus Photos
  • 17.12. Axolotl
  • 17.2. Biotopes
  • 17.2.1. Blackwater Biotope
  • 17.3. Blackwater Fish
  • 17.4. Lake Malawi Cichlids
  • 17.4.1. Malawi Aquariums
  • 17.5. Goldfish
  • 17.5.1. Types of Goldfish
  • 17.5.2. Size of Goldfish
  • 17.5.3. Stocking Goldfish
  • 17.5.4. Goldfish Care
  • 17.6. Guppies and Livebearers
  • 17.7. Aquarium Bettas
  • 17.8 Oscars
  • 17.9. Nano Aquarium
  • 18. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 18.1. Aquarium Water Changes
  • 18.1.1. Water Changes in Depth
  • 18.1.2. Aquarium Water Change Math
  • 18.1.3. Water Change Water
  • 18.1.4. Softened, RO, DI, TDS
  • 18.2. Drip Water Changes
  • 18.3. Cleaning the Substrate
  • 18.4. Cleaning a Filter
  • 18.5. Heavy Stocked Maintenance
  • 18.6. Old Tank Syndrome
  • 18.7. Sick Tank Syndrome
  • 2. Aquarium Cycling
  • 2.1. Fish-less Cycling
  • 2.10. Nitrogen Cycle
  • 2.11. Inoculate for Cycling
  • 2.12. Beneficial Bacteria
  • 2.13. Cycling Test
  • 2.14. The Mature Aquarium
  • 2.15. Cycling a Planted Aquarium
  • 2.2. Many Ways to Cycle
  • 2.3. How I Cycle
  • 2.4. Cycling with Ammonia
  • 2.4.1. Dr. Tim’s Cycling Method
  • 2.5. Aquarium Fish-in Cycling
  • 2.5.1. Fish-in Cycling Science
  • 2.5.2. Rapid Fish-in Cycling
  • 2.6. Not Cycling at All
  • 2.7. New Tank Syndrome
  • 2.8. Bacteria-in-a-bottle
  • 2.8.1. Bacteria in a Bottle in Depth
  • 2.8.2. Sludge Removing Bacteria
  • 2.9. Instant Cycling Chemicals
  • 3. Fish Food
  • 3.1. Insignificance of Food
  • 3.1.1. Fish Food Science
  • 3.2. Fish Diet Specializations
  • 3.3. Amount of Fish Food
  • 3.3.1. Amount in Depth
  • 3.4. Gel Fish Food
  • 3.5. Breaking Up Food
  • 3.6. Dry Fish Food
  • 3.6.1. Dry Fish Food in Depth
  • 3.7. Banned Fish Food
  • 3.8. Food and Malawi Bloat
  • 3.9. Fish Food and Gunk
  • 4. Temperature, pH, KH and GH
  • 4.1. Importance of Water
  • 4.10. ORP or Redox
  • 4.11. Tank Syndromes
  • 4.2. Aquarium Temperatures
  • 4.3. Free Floating Bacteria
  • 4.4. Aquarium pH
  • 4.4.1. Aquarium pH is Not Important
  • 4.4.2. Buffering the Water
  • 4.4.3. Carbon Dioxide and pH
  • 4.4.4. Dropping pH
  • 4.4.5. Raising pH
  • 4.5. Water Hardness
  • 4.5.1. General Hardness
  • 4.5.2. Carbonate Hardness
  • 4.5.2.1. KH and Cycling
  • 4.6. Salts in the Water
  • 4.6.1. Trace Additives
  • 4.7. Fish Tolerance to pH
  • 4.8. “Stability” isn’t Important
  • 4.8.1. Rapid Thermal and pH Shifts
  • 4.9. Un-bagging Fish
  • 5. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Chlorine
  • 5.2. Safe Ammonia Levels
  • 5.2.1. Ammonia in Depth
  • 5.2.3. High Ammonia
  • 5.3. Safe Nitrite Levels
  • 5.3.2. Nitrite in More Depth
  • 5.4. Safe Nitrate Levels
  • 5.4.1. Nitrate in Depth
  • 5.5. Chlorine and Chloramine
  • 5.5.1. Chlorination in Depth
  • 5.5.2. Chloramines
  • 5.5.2.1. Ammonia in Chloramine
  • 5.5.3. Water Conditioners
  • 5.5.3.1. Ammonia Detoxifying
  • 5.5.3.2. Prime and Safe
  • 5.5.3.2.1. Prime, Safe and Ammonia
  • 5.5.3.2.2. Prime, Safe and Cycling
  • 5.5.3.2.3. Prime, Safe and Sodium Dithionite
  • 5.5.3.2.4. Prime, Safe and Chloramine
  • 5.5.3.2.5. Prime Concentration
  • 5.5.3.2.6. Safe Cannot be Made into Prime
  • 5.5.3.3. Conditioner Chemistry
  • 5.5.3.4. Cost of Conditioners
  • 5.5.3.5. Conditioner Testing
  • 5.5.3.6. Review of Conditioners
  • 5.5.4. Stress Coat Products
  • 6. Filtration
  • 6.1. Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.1.1. Cleaned Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.1.2. Uncleaned Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.2. Biofiltration
  • 6.2.1. Detritus Explained
  • 6.2.2. Brown Gunk
  • 6.2.3. Cloudy Water
  • 6.3. Over-filtration
  • 6.4. Crystal-Clear Water
  • 6.4.1. Crystal-Clear Water in Depth
  • 6.4.2. Polishing Filtration
  • 6.5. Water Flow Rate
  • 6.5.1. Flow Function
  • 6.5.2. Substrate as a Filter
  • 6.6. Aquaponic Filtration
  • 6.7. Nitrate Factory
  • 6.8. Thorough Cleaning
  • 6.8.1. Filter Cleaning Tests
  • 6.9. Tap Water Rinsing
  • 7. Filter Media
  • 7.1. Review of Media
  • 7.1.1. Cost of Filter Media
  • 7.1.2. Media Function
  • 7.1.3. Filter Media Test
  • 7.1.3.1. Ammonia Oxidizing Test
  • 7.1.3.2. Water Clarity Test
  • 7.2. Individual Media List
  • 7.2.1. Polyester Floss
  • 7.2.10. Growstone
  • 7.2.11. Ceramics
  • 7.2.12. Matrix
  • 7.2.13. Clay Balls
  • 7.2.14. BioHome Filter Media
  • 7.2.2. Foam Media
  • 7.2.3. K1 Media
  • 7.2.4. Pumice Perlite
  • 7.2.5. Gravel
  • 7.2.6. PP EVA Pads
  • 7.2.7. Bio Balls
  • 7.2.8. Pot Scrubbers
  • 7.2.9. Lava Rock
  • 7.3. Media Volume
  • 7.4. Chemical Filtration Media
  • 7.4.2. Activated Carbon
  • 7.4.3. Ion-Exchange Resins
  • 7.4.4. Zeolite
  • 7.4.5. Phosphate Remover
  • 7.4.6. Purigen
  • 7.4.7. Poly-Filter
  • 7.4.8. Chemi-pure
  • 7.5. Denitrifying Media
  • 7.6. Media Surface Area
  • 8. Review of Aquarium Filters
  • 8.1. Review of Filters
  • 8.1.1. Filter Test
  • 8.2. Hang-on-the-back Filters
  • 8.3. Canister Filter
  • 8.3.1. Canisters in Depth
  • 8.3.2. Do-it-yourself Canisters
  • 8.3.3. FX Series Canister Filters
  • 8.4. Sponge Filters
  • 8.5. Under Gravel Filters
  • 8.5.1. Under-Gravels in Depth
  • 8.5.2. DIY Undergravel Filter
  • 8.6. Sump Filters
  • 8.6.1. Sumps in Depth
  • 8.6.2. Static Sump Filters
  • 8.6.3. Trickle Filters
  • 8.6.4. Wet-Dry Filters
  • 8.6.5. Fluidized Beds
  • 8.6.6. Do-it-yourself Sumps
  • 8.6.7. Foam Sump
  • 8.7. Other Filters
  • 8.7.1. Sand Filters
  • 8.7.2. High Performance Filters
  • 8.7.3. Hamburg Matten Filter
  • 8.7.4. Diatomaceous Earth Filters
  • 8.7.5. DIY Bottle Filters
  • 8.7.6. Small Filters
  • 8.7.7. Bottom of the Tank Matten
  • 8.7.8. Small DIY Filters
  • 8.8. Filter and Media Design
  • 8.8.1. Sizing Filters in Depth
  • 8.9. Anaerobic Reactors
  • 8.9.1. Biocenosis Reactor
  • 8.9.2. A Feasible Reactor
  • 8.9.3. Assimilatory Denitrification
  • 9. Aeration
  • 9.1. Aeration in Depth
  • 9.2. Turbulence and Aeration
  • 9.3. Air Stones
  • 9.3.2. Cleaning Air Stones
  • 9.4. Skimmers and Spray Bars
  • 9.5. Aeration and Temperature
  • 97. Author
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  • 1. Aquarium Basics
  • 2. Aquarium Cycling
  • 3. Fish Food
  • 4. Temperature, pH, KH and GH
  • 5. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Chlorine
  • 6. Filtration
  • 7. Filter Media
  • 8. Aquarium Filters
  • 9. Aeration
  • 10. Diseases
  • 11. Fish Disease Symptoms
  • 12. Treatment
  • 13. Stocking
  • 14. Equipment
  • 15. Planted Aquarium
  • 16. Aquarium Algae
  • 17. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 18. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 97. Author