
Do it Yourself Fertilizers
Some hobbyists with planted aquariums want to use the same type of fertilization program an expensive commercial aquarium fertilizer will provide, but at a much lower cost. This article tells on how to make a do-it-yourself fertilizer which is MUCH cheaper.
Optimum NPK Ratio
The “NPK” ratio is a series of three numbers that reflects the percentages of nitrogen, phosphate and potassium in a fertilizer.
A VERY ROUGH “optimum” NPK ratio for a “complete” liquid aquarium fertilizer is 2.5-0.5-7.5 NPK fertilizer. This “optimum” ratio is also present in NPK numbers like 3-0.6-9 or 1.6-0.3-4.8. Note that Aquarium Co-op Easy Green has an NPK of 2.7-0.5-9. Also note you typically cannot make higher concentrations because of solubility problems with the fertilizer salts.

Simple and Easy
To make a simple, easy, and cheap DIY nitrate nitrogen fertilizer with a low tech aquarium formula of NPK of 3-0.6-11, simply buy three chemicals, then mix per these directions;
- mix up one liter of hot distilled water with the following:
- 328 grams potassium nitrate (NPK 13-0-44)
- 16 grams mono-potassium di-hydrogen phosphate (NPK 0-52-34)
First, dissolve the mono-potassium phosphate into the water and then dissolve the potassium nitrate. This creates roughly one liter of water-based fertilizer solution with a composition of roughly 3-0.6-11 NPK. Further data on this formula can be found at this like:
15.5.3. Estimative Index
The recommended dose for high-tech aquariums is one millimeter of the solution once a week for low light planted aquariums per ten gallons and one milliliter of solution per ten gallons twice a week for moderate light aquariums. Do not store the fertilizer solution in the refrigerator as the chemicals will crystalize out of solution.
All these fertilizers can get a filmy gel in the bottom of the bottle that is something called a polyphosphide. Ignore it.

Other Formulas
Note that if one makes up roughly a 50-50 mix of Miracle-Gro All Purpose Plant Food ($10 for five pounds, NPK 24-8-16) with potassium sulfate ($25 for three pounds, note it is difficult to dissolve), one can produce a very good fertilizer that is about 1.6-0.5-4.8 NPK, i.e. reasonably close to the optimum 5-1-15 NPK ratio defined as “optimum” for a general purpose aquarium fertilizer.
Simply buy the Miracle Gro and potassium sulfate. Then mix per these directions;
- mix up one liter of hot distilled water with the following:
- 120 grams Miracle-Grow (NPK 24-8-16)
- 100 grams potassium sulfate (NPK 0-0-55)
First, dissolve the potassium sulfate. This typically requires repeated heating in a microwave over a 24 hour period. Then dissolve the Miracle Grow. This creates roughly one liter of water-based fertilizer solution with a composition of roughly 1.6-0.5-4.8 NPK.
Miracle-Gro does use ammonia sulfate as the nitrogen source so the pH needs to be below roughly 8.2 to use this if one has fish in the aquarium.
Any soluble fertilizer will work here if the analyses of this fertilizer are very roughly in the ratio of 3 N to 1 P to 2 K. Note some hydroponic fertilizer formulas work very well here in place of the Miracle-Gro, also supplying some magnesium. Simply mix them in equal proportions with potassium sulfate.
There is also a four to one potassium nitrate to monopotassium phosphate mix sold in Australia which will work well. The resulting NPK analyses vary and some math skills are needed to get the desired dosing. But note this is NOT rocket science. Just get everything in the ballpark and you will be fine.

Do NOT use potassium chloride in combination with an ammonium sulfate to make a fertilizer. With most fertilizers, the potassium chloride will simply react with the ammonium sulfate to produce potassium sulfate which will precipitate out. So the solubility problem remains with the chloride. And some plants hate chloride in any quantity.
For these DIY fertilizers the recommended dose for high-tech aquariums is two millimeters of the solution once a week for low light planted aquariums per ten gallons and two milliliters of solution per ten gallons twice a week for moderate light aquariums. Both these fertilizers can be used in place of the NPK epiphytic fertilizer found in this link:
15.5.5. DIY Epiphytic Fertilizer
All these DIY methods give a cost about 80% lower than the pre-made stuff like Easy Green (and about 95% cheaper than something like the Seachem fertilizer “Line”).

Note that for any of these fertilizers it is a good idea to add just a tiny smidgen of iron (like one crystal of the powdered ferrous sulfate salt or the micro fertilizer) in between additions of the main fertilizer. Do not put iron into the solution with the phosphate as they will simply tie each other up into unavailable iron phosphates.
Flexibility
These fertilizer formulations are flexible. If one see new leaves with yellowing and the nitrate level of the water is below 20, add potassium nitrate, ammonium nitrate or urea. If one has holes in the leaves go ahead and add some potassium sulfate. If older leaves are turning yellow, add phosphate. Do not be afraid to experiment. Different plants respond differently to fertilizers and water chemistry plays a big factor.
If one has high nitrogen in the water supply and only wants to add potassium and phosphate, make up the following solution:
- mix up one liter of hot distilled water with the following:
- 60 grams potassium sulfate (NPK 0-0-55)
- 30 grams mono-potassium di-hydrogen phosphate (NPK 0-52-34)
This can be supplemented with a micro-iron solution just like the complete fertilizer solutions.

Obtaining the Chemicals
NilocG Aquatics offers dry chemical packages which are VERY reasonably priced. For instance, the NilocG EI Based NPK + CSM+B Fertilizer is designed to be used with the EI (Estimative Index) dosing method. The fertilizer package includes 2lb KNO3, 1/2lb KH2PO4, 1/2lb K2SO4, and 1/2lb CSM+B (Iron and micronutrients). This costs less than $20, which is a very reasonable price. It will last a very long time.
Note that there is one supplier, GreenLeaf Aquariums (GLA), who has both raw chemicals and package deals. They also have some very useful calculations and tables on their website about using their chemicals. GreenLeaf supplies equal quantities of each fertilizer component in their kits. No aquarium fertilizer formula I know of uses equal quantities of chemicals. So I recommend only buying the raw chemicals from them.
Also, note that the latest formulas for DIY fertilizers do not use potassium sulfate. So one can drop that from the list of chemicals. One only needs potassium nitrate (KNO3, $2 a pound on Amazon), and potassium dihydrogen phosphate (KH2PO4, $25 a pound on Amazon). And note that if you have a fertilizer distributor near you it pays to buy the components in twenty-pound bags. The price is MUCH lower. You can often get twenty pounds for the same price as one pound.

Dry Chemical Programs
There are two commercial dry chemical “programs” that have all the dry fertilizer one needs in reasonably priced packages of three to five chemicals.
PPS-Pro Dosing
The Perpetual Preservation System (PPS) dosing method is a commercial fertilizer program for planted tanks. NilocG Aquatics offers the dry chemicals to make up such a system. The PPS system uses daily dosages in the morning. One PPS “formula” adds the following to the water:
Total daily dose yields:
- 1ppm NO3
- 0.1ppm PO4
- 1.33ppm K
- 0.1ppm Mg
- 0.05ppm TE (trace elements)
If one uses dry chemicals the price of this system is very reasonable. The only problem I see with this program is that the iron and the phosphorus can tie each other up, especially in higher pH situations.
Note that there is one supplier, GreenLeaf Aquariums (GLA), who has a package deal for the chemicals for this system. They have some very useful tables on their website along with packages for chemicals for the PPS system, the ADA system, and the EI system. They supply equal quantities of each fertilizer component in their kits so I recommend only buying the raw chemicals from them.

Homemade Root Fertilizer Tablets
Some eBay entrepreneurs put garden Osmocote™ products into gel caps and sell them as aquarium fertilizers at ridiculous markups. If you want to go that way, buy both the ingredients and make your own. IF and ONLY IF one has a fine substrate like sand, then these Osmocote™ tabs are a very good choice for placing deep into the substrate under the plant. I highly recommend them IF and ONLY IF the substrate is fine.
Note there seems to be some concern over Osmocote plus because it has micronutrients in it. The amount of micronutrients in Osmocote Plus is TINY and CANNOT build up to toxic levels over time.

Note that these gelatin tabs are composed of animal protein (cooked down hides, hooves, and hair). If you have fish much over two inches in size these fish will smell the gelatin and uproot the tabs. So, if you have larger fish, it is best to make a slab of Osmocote™ in Plaster of Paris and just cut it up into small cubes before it hardens,
The reason I do not recommend these tabs for the substrate which is not sand is that with a larger substrate there is a constant water exchange between the interstices of the substrate and the water column. This exchange makes adding tabs to such substrate the same as putting it in the water column.
Also, note that there are pills for both iron and phosphates sold as “supplements” for human consumption in Walmart. The phosphate pills are very good low-cost options for putting into a fine substrate in a planted aquarium. They are much cheaper than commercial aquarium plant tabs. But the iron tablets have too much iron in them. Do not use iron tablets.

The Science behind Fertilizer Chemicals
The “NPK analysis” found in all fertilizers is a series of three numbers (like 13-3-15) which indicates the percentages of nutrients in the fertilizer. The first number is nitrogen (N). The second number is phosphorus (P or actually P2O5). And the third number (K or K2O) is potassium (“K” is from the Latin word for potassium – kalium).
Here are the chemicals we are using above:
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Ammonium sulfate is the chemical formula (NH4)2SO4. It has an NPK analysis of 21-0-0
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Potassium sulfate is K2SO4. It has an NPK of 0-0-55
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Potassium nitrate is KNO3. It has an NPK of 13-0-44
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Fertilizers in More Depth
Several other DIY formulas for aquarium fertilizers can be found in these links:
15.5.3. Estimative Index
15.5.4. NH4 + Tabs Fertilizer
15.5.5. DIY Epiphytic Fertilizer
We go into aquarium fertilizers in more depth in the following links:
15.5. Aquarium Fertilization
15.5.1. Ready-Made Fertilizer
15.5.2. Fertilizer Programs
15.5.6 Fish Food as Fertilizer
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Dave, thank you so much for all of the invaluable info on this site. I have a question re: your suggestion to use miracle-gro as part of DIY ferts. The locally available “Miracle-gro all purpose soluble plant food” in Australia contains 0.03% copper. Is that still ok to use in tanks containing shrimp, or would you avoid it? Also, will it cause ammonia spikes? Thanks again!
In reply to Adam …. I would avoid it in shrimp tanks. It will cause ammonia spikes and there are many better alternatives.
Hi, I do like the diy techniques, operating two diy co2 yeast based reactors simultaneously to compensate for relatively low flow rate as compared to traditional systems, but it does its task. I assume sufficient co2 is generated. I’m renewing it in less than an hour. Always keep a small portion of old solution when renewing.
But my question is related to diy fertilizers. It’s now time to make a self production of this, as commercial products are very expensive, and they not deserve for us to buy from them. For what? A couple of cheap salts mixed with water.
My actual question is, instead of acquiring the different salts, I just saw a prepared “soluble fertilizer for fertilization”, with the npk ratio, as indicated on the bag, 20.2.30, thought I assume it’s for general agriculture fertilization, CAN I USE THIS PRODUCT AS A READY TO USE IN THE AQUARIUM ? of course after mixing with water
In reply to Sagi …… The problem with off the shelf garden fertilizers has to do with ammonia. If the following three things are met there can be a problem:
1, The garden fertilizer uses ammonia as the source of nitrogen
2, The pH is high (over 8.2)
3, dosing is high
Ammonia is poisonous to fish so caution is advised
Hi,
“One only needs potassium nitrate (KNO3, $2 a pound on Amazon), and potassium dihydrogen phosphate (KH2PO4, $25 a pound on Amazon).”
Most online sources recommend the addition of potassium chloride OR potassium sulfate
That is for ONLY a complete fertilizer. I use potassium sulfate in several of my recipes.
Hi, is there, and can you recommend any complete npk soluble garden fertilizer worldwide manufacture that can be mixed with water and used in a planted aquarium (of course quantities are calculated according to online calculators) ?
I find acquiring the individual salt ingredients, like potassium nitrate 13.0.46 or sulfate or chloride or even dtpa chelated iron 11% not an easy task, not many suppliers are having them in stoke.
For instance Fertiberg 17.10.27 ?
There’s this 20.20.20 which I assume is completely not for this purpose..
In reply to Sagi …… The problem with garden fertilizers in the aquarium has to do with ammonia. Most garden fertilizers use ammonium salts to provide the nitrogen. These can poison and kill fish.
Oh you did specify “To make a simple, easy, and cheap DIY nitrate nitrogen fertilizer”,
Not a complete npk. So for a complete npk the addition of potassium chloride or sulfate is needed, 3 ingredients.
Any other recipes available?
So the nitrogen within agriculture grade potassium nitrate 13.0.46 is not ammonium?
All these fertilizers can get a filmy gel in the bottom of the bottle that is something called a polyphosphide. Ignore it.
Well I did prepared nitrate diy fertilizer from potassium nitrate and distilled water alone, quantities according to online calculators.
I did notice this string gel I believe, and I do believe it is the source for the persistent surface scum I have lately.
You shouldn’t ignore it, it is bacteria. Though not mold or fungus as I initially thought.
i think i have iron and phosphate lock out problem. what’s a fail safe way to ensure both are sufficient w/o over swing in either then causing lockout? tried lean dosing phosphate, but i am also fighting gsa some times, or is it bba (have both and hard to tell the difference). have root and wc plants
In reply to TL ……… Best way to prevent lockout problems is to alternate two fertilizer solutions, daily to weekly. Iron, Phosphate, Iron, Phosphate etc.
Hello Dave, 328 grams of potassium nitrate seems like a lot for 1 liter of water. Am I reading that correctly or did I miss a decimal point. Very informative nonetheless.
In reply to Ogie ………. Actually it dissolve relatively rapidly at that concentration, especially with hot water.
Is there a better source of CSM+B (Trace) or DIY option? pre-made ones seem to differ in formula especially with boron, there’s a whole thread debate about it over in UK forums years ago… not sure what to make of it.
In reply to TL ……….. Much ado about nothing. Unless one is starting with distilled water. Most water supplies in the world have more then adequate micronutrients. And the recommended amounts can vary by several orders of magnitude with no effect on the outcome.
Any suggestion on how to get iron into a gravel or soil substrate for root growth?
You mention here that diy tabs are only good in fine substrate and in another article you recommended Seachem tabs as they provide iron.
Great articles btw.
In reply to AS …………… Tabs are fine ways to introduce both iron and phosphorus to a soil, sand or fine gravel substrate. They don’t work that well in coarse gravel. In coarse gravel one is better off with using an epiphytic type iron fertilizer in between applications of the macro phosphorus fertilizer.
Hi Dave,
I’ve made a few batches of the DIY miracle grow/potassium sulfate fertilizer and it always seems there is a fair amount of precipitate after mixing; there are fine grey particles (I assume the undissolved potassium sulfate), and large white crystals (salts from mixing the two ingredients?). In a litre jar, there is maybe 1/4” of precipitate; would this reduce the effectiveness of the fertilizer at all? What is the reaction that causes this?
I also have a great tip that may be useful to share in the fertilizer sections for mixing DIY fertilizer solutions, especially K2SO4 – Use a blender with a heater (for soups etc.).
It does an incredible job of mixing solutions and makes the whole process so much easier with less mess. For the stubborn KSO4, it still takes several heat/blend/cool down cycles, but all you have to do is push a few buttons every few hours, and the results are MUCH better than mixing by hand.
Thanks again for this amazing website!
In reply to Mike ……. Both the phosphates and the sulfates in Miracle grow can precipitate out at high concentrations. I just shake the container well before pouring out the required amount.