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    • 11. Fish Disease Symptoms
    • 12. Treatment
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You are here: Home / 15.17. Father Fish Aquariums

15.17. Father Fish Aquariums

15.17. Father Fish Aquariums
15.17. Father Fish Aquariums

Another system that uses a filtered “natural” planted system with some air stone aeration can be perused in the popular YouTube channel “Father Fish”, Lou Foxwell (great YouTube channel, even if, like all of us “older” folks, he tends to ramble on a bit). The Father Fish system he uses is somewhat different than most low-tech planted approaches and radically different than the high-tech planted approaches. The system he uses can be summarized as follows:

  • Heavily planted with lots of easy “green” plants
  • Light stocking of small to medium sized fish
  • Filtration via “deep substrate”, “detritus” and plants
  • Small air stone or no air stone
  • Water changes ONLY “when needed” (depends on plant density)
  • Very light feeding (some cases no feeding)
  • Fertilization only from food and compost substrate
  • Rich compost under three inches of sand, carefully planted to prevent any contact between the compost and the water column
  • Heavy lighting
  • Inoculated with pond mud

Father Fish used an organic deep sand bed in what appeared to be about one hundred moderately stocked fish aquariums in his store (it is now closed). Father Fish added a whole bunch of “stuff” to very organic potting soil (looks like African violet mix to me). He used one inch of this soil mix for the first inch in his deep sand bed planted low tech aquariums.

"Father Fish" Aquarium
“Father Fish” and one of his Aquariums

He added worm castings, peat moss, Black Kow compost, blood meal, organic snail food, iron supplement, Osmocote, lime, and Epsom salts. He then added three to four inches of sand over that mix. He inoculates  the aquariums with pond mud (“dead leaves” from a pond). Father Fish calls this a “natural” aquarium.

Father Fish has used this method for his many low tech planted aquariums. The lower three inches of the substrate in all his tanks is dark black in color from humus.  His filters are sumps with five inch deep sand beds in them. The ammonia and dissolved organic compounds (DOCs) are consumed by mulm and detritus above and in the sand. The mulm and detritus, in turn, is consumed by a whole host of tiny critters that Father Fish introduces with his pond mud inoculate.

Father Fish has some very intense lighting, like ten “true” watts of LED lighting per ten gallon. But he doesn’t have algae.

Father fish does create a mature aquarium (and simultaneously “cycles”) with a different methodology than I do. He heavily plants an aquarium (one plant per gallon), adds a few fish, then leaves it with the lights on for 24 hours a day for a month or two. This works well for him. This just points out how flexible Mother Nature is.

Father Fish has some very healthy fish and some very healthy plants so his methods work. But note the water in his tanks tends to be slightly yellow and somewhat murky so I’m just not a big fan of his methods (he admits this in several of his videos). To avoid this one can simply take the filtration levels up to much higher levels. Note that a highly filtered Father Fish tank is still a natural ecosystem with all the inherent benefits of such an ecosystem.

It appears Father Fish is doing most of his biofiltration inside his aquariums with the surfaces of plants, detritus, mulm, substrate and decorations.

Note that Father Fish sells his soil mix and plants.

"Natural" Aquarium
“Natural” Aquarium

Father Fish has recently begun recommending the addition of handfuls of brown leaves to an aquarium.  Several of my readers have tried this and ended up with cesspools (“soupy black water”). We do NOT recommend this methodology. Adding handfuls of brown leaves is the same as overfeeding an aquarium. It takes the dissolved organics (DOCs) high, the oxygen goes low because of a high biological oxidation demand (BOD), and a high carbon to nitrogen ratio insures a murky bacteria filled water.

Beginners always do something overboard. A few brown leaves won’t hurt anything. But handfuls can result in a cesspool filled with dead and dying fish. Several of my readers have now done just this and had catastrophic results (tankful’s of dead fish).

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Pages

  • 1. Aquarium Basics
  • 1.1. Aquarium Beginner Guide
  • 1.1.1. The First Aquarium
  • 1.1.10. Plants and the New Hobbyist
  • 1.1.11. Ich
  • 1.1.12. How to Make Fish Thrive
  • 1.1.12.1. Guideline Example
  • 1.1.12.2. Unimportant Aquarium Parameters
  • 1.1.13. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 1.1.14. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 1.1.2. A Simple Way to Cycle
  • 1.1.3. Fish Food
  • 1.1.4. Water Parameters
  • 1.1.5. Filters
  • 1.1.6. Filter Media
  • 1.1.7. Aeration
  • 1.1.8. Stocking
  • 1.1.9. “Brown Algae”
  • 1.2. Falsehoods and Myths
  • 1.3. False Marketing Claims
  • 1.4. Sources of Data
  • 1.4.1. Facebook Fake Accounts
  • 1.5. Aquarium Options
  • 1.5.1. Aquarium Examples
  • 1.6. Aquarium Fast Fish Deaths
  • 1.7. Aquarium Slow Fish Deaths
  • 10. Diseases
  • 10.1. Diseases in General
  • 10.10. Black Spots
  • 10.11. Tapeworms
  • 10.12. Nematodes
  • 10.12.1. Camallanus
  • 10.12.2. Capillaria
  • 10.13. Pests
  • 10.13.1. Hydra
  • 10.13.2. Detritus Worms
  • 10.13.3. Planaria
  • 10.13.4. Aquarium Leeches
  • 10.13.5. Bryozoans and Stentors
  • 10.14. Fish Lice
  • 10.15. Dwarf Gourami Disease
  • 10.16. Graphite Disease in Bettas
  • 10.2. Skin Protozoans
  • 10.2.1. All Protozoans
  • 10.2.2. Ich
  • 10.2.2.1. Ich in Depth
  • 10.2.2.2. Ich Immunity
  • 10.2.2.3. Ich Medication
  • 10.2.2.4. Ich Medications in More Depth
  • 10.2.2.5. Ineffective Ich Medications
  • 10.2.2.6. Filtration of Ich
  • 10.2.2.7. Ich and Heat
  • 10.2.3. Velvet
  • 10.2.4. Epistylis
  • 10.2.5. Chilodonella and Costia
  • 10.2.6. Tetrahymena
  • 10.2.7. Cryptobia
  • 10.3. Bacterial
  • 10.3.1. Skin Ulcers
  • 10.3.10. Red Mouth in Goldfish
  • 10.3.11. Treating Bacteria
  • 10.3.2. Mouth Rot
  • 10.3.3. Duck Lips
  • 10.3.4. Fin Rot
  • 10.3.5. Saddleback
  • 10.3.6. Red Blotches
  • 10.3.7. White Eyes
  • 10.3.8. Popeye
  • 10.3.9. Red Gills
  • 10.4. Fish Tuberculosis
  • 10.4.1. Fish TB in Depth
  • 10.4.2. Mycobacteriosis in Humans
  • 10.5. Hexamita
  • 10.6. Flukes
  • 10.7. Fish Saprolegnia
  • 10.8. Lymphocystis
  • 10.9. Anchor Worms
  • 11. Fish Disease Symptoms
  • 11.1. Hole in the Head
  • 11.1.1. Hexamita and HITH
  • 11.1.2. Spots on Head
  • 11.10. White Skin Blotches
  • 11.11. Red Skin Blotches
  • 11.12. Neon Disease
  • 11.13. Slime Coat
  • 11.14. Scaly Skin
  • 11.15. Fish not Eating
  • 11.16. Aggression
  • 11.17. Black Death
  • 11.18. Black Head Syndrome
  • 11.19. Gas Bubble Disease
  • 11.2. White Poop
  • 11.3. Malawi Bloat
  • 11.4. Dropsy
  • 11.5. Hollow Belly
  • 11.6. Swim Bladder
  • 11.7. Shimmying
  • 11.8. Twirling
  • 11.9. Spinal Deformities
  • 12. Treatment
  • 12.1. Basics of Treatment
  • 12.10. The Shotgun Approach
  • 12.2. Treatments Summary
  • 12.3. Quarantine Tanks
  • 12.4. Ineffective Medicines
  • 12.4.1. “Natural” Aquarium Medications
  • 12.4.2. Salt
  • 12.4.3. Aquarium Dyes
  • 12.4.4. Formalin
  • 12.4.5. Antiseptics
  • 12.4.6. Furan and Sulfa
  • 12.4.7. Quinine
  • 12.5. Fish Don’t Drink
  • 12.6. Sterilization
  • 12.7. Making Medicated Food
  • 12.8. Euthanizing a Fish
  • 12.9. Avoiding Disease
  • 13. Stocking
  • 13.1. Stocking Opinions
  • 13.2. Calculating Stocking Ratio
  • 13.3. Lifespan of a Fish
  • 14. Equipment
  • 14.1. UV Sterilizers
  • 14.1.1. UV in Depth
  • 14.1.2 Selecting a UV Unit
  • 14.10.Wood
  • 14.11. Fish Electrocution
  • 14.12. Silicone
  • 14.13. Aquarium Electric Cost
  • 14.14. Cleaning Old Aquariums
  • 14.15. Aquarium Aesthetics
  • 14.2. Substrates
  • 14.2.1. Sand
  • 14.2.2. Gravel
  • 14.2.3. Buffering Substrates
  • 14.2.4. Anaerobic Myth
  • 14.2.4.1. Anaerobic Science
  • 14.3. Rocks
  • 14.4. Lights
  • 14.4.1. Light Spectrums
  • 14.4.2. Obsolete Standards
  • 14.5. Piping
  • 14.6. Pumps
  • 14.7. Overflow Devices
  • 14.8. Aquarium Heaters
  • 14.9. Wavemakers
  • 15. Planted Aquarium
  • 15.1. Planted Aquariums in Depth
  • 15.10. Hybrid Planted Aquariums
  • 15.11. Many Fish Many Plants
  • 15.12. Propagating Plants
  • 15.13. Hau Planted Aquariums
  • 15.14. Low Tech Planted Aquariums
  • 15.15. Sterilizing Plants
  • 15.16. Natural Aquarium
  • 15.17. Father Fish Aquariums
  • 15.2. Fish
  • 15.3. Fish Limitations
  • 15.4. Types of Planted Tanks
  • 15.4.1. Planted Aquarium Examples
  • 15.5. Aquarium Fertilizing
  • 15.5.1. Ready Made Fertilizers
  • 15.5.2. Fertilizer Programs
  • 15.5.3. Estimative Index
  • 15.5.4. NH4 and Tabs Fertilizer
  • 15.5.5. DIY Epiphytic Fertilizer
  • 15.5.6. Fish Food Fertilizer
  • 15.5.7. DIY Fertilizers
  • 15.6. Carbon Dioxide
  • 15.6.1. Low Tech CO2
  • 15.6.2. KH pH CO2 Relationships
  • 15.6.3. High Tech CO2 Systems  
  • 15.6.4. CO2 From Food
  • 15.6.5. Liquid CO2
  • 15.6.6. Measuring CO2
  • 15.7. Plant Substrates
  • 15.8. Walstad Aquarium
  • 15.9. High Tech Planted Aquariums
  • 16. Aquarium Algae
  • 16.1. Algae Biology
  • 16.10. Water Mold
  • 16.10.1. White Fuzz
  • 16.11. Slime Mold
  • 16.12. Red Spot Algae
  • 16.13. A Few Oddities
  • 16.2. Controlling Algae
  • 16.2.1. Algae in Fish Only Tanks
  • 16.2.2. Algae in High Tech Tanks
  • 16.2.3. Algae in Low Tech Tanks
  • 16.2.4. Algae Eaters
  • 16.2.5. The Algae War
  • 16.2.6. Chemical Algae Control
  • 16.2.7. Chihiros Doctor
  • 16.3. Thread Algae
  • 16.4. Blue-Green Algae
  • 16.5. Black Beard Algae
  • 16.6. Staghorn Algae
  • 16.7. Aquarium Green Water
  • 16.8. Brown Algae
  • 16.9. Green Spot Algae
  • 17. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 17.1. Native Water Chemistries
  • 17.10. Aquarium Shrimp
  • 17.11. Discus
  • 17.11.1. Discus Husbandry
  • 17.11.2. Filtration for Discus
  • 17.11.3. Water for Discus
  • 17.11.4. Food for Discus
  • 17.11.5. Discus Pheromones
  • 17.11.6. Breeding Discus
  • 17.11.7. Discus Photos
  • 17.12. Axolotl
  • 17.2. Biotopes
  • 17.2.1. Blackwater Biotope
  • 17.3. Blackwater Fish
  • 17.4. Lake Malawi Cichlids
  • 17.4.1. Malawi Aquariums
  • 17.5. Goldfish
  • 17.5.1. Types of Goldfish
  • 17.5.2. Size of Goldfish
  • 17.5.3. Stocking Goldfish
  • 17.5.4. Goldfish Care
  • 17.6. Guppies and Livebearers
  • 17.7. Aquarium Bettas
  • 17.8 Oscars
  • 17.9. Nano Aquarium
  • 18. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 18.1. Aquarium Water Changes
  • 18.1.1. Water Changes in Depth
  • 18.1.2. Aquarium Water Change Math
  • 18.1.3. Water Change Water
  • 18.1.4. Softened, RO, DI, TDS
  • 18.2. Drip Water Changes
  • 18.3. Cleaning the Substrate
  • 18.4. Cleaning a Filter
  • 18.5. Heavy Stocked Maintenance
  • 18.6. Old Tank Syndrome
  • 18.7. Sick Tank Syndrome
  • 2. Aquarium Cycling
  • 2.1. Fish-less Cycling
  • 2.10. Nitrogen Cycle
  • 2.11. Inoculate for Cycling
  • 2.12. Beneficial Bacteria
  • 2.13. Cycling Test
  • 2.14. The Mature Aquarium
  • 2.15. Cycling a Planted Aquarium
  • 2.2. Many Ways to Cycle
  • 2.3. How I Cycle
  • 2.4. Cycling with Ammonia
  • 2.4.1. Dr. Tim’s Cycling Method
  • 2.5. Aquarium Fish-in Cycling
  • 2.5.1. Fish-in Cycling Science
  • 2.5.2. Rapid Fish-in Cycling
  • 2.6. Not Cycling at All
  • 2.7. New Tank Syndrome
  • 2.8. Bacteria-in-a-bottle
  • 2.8.1. Bacteria in a Bottle in Depth
  • 2.8.2. Sludge Removing Bacteria
  • 2.9. Instant Cycling Chemicals
  • 3. Fish Food
  • 3.1. Insignificance of Food
  • 3.1.1. Fish Food Science
  • 3.2. Fish Diet Specializations
  • 3.3. Amount of Fish Food
  • 3.3.1. Amount in Depth
  • 3.4. Gel Fish Food
  • 3.5. Breaking Up Food
  • 3.6. Dry Fish Food
  • 3.6.1. Dry Fish Food in Depth
  • 3.7. Banned Fish Food
  • 3.8. Food and Malawi Bloat
  • 3.9. Fish Food and Gunk
  • 4. Temperature, pH, KH and GH
  • 4.1. Importance of Water
  • 4.10. ORP or Redox
  • 4.11. Tank Syndromes
  • 4.2. Aquarium Temperatures
  • 4.3. Free Floating Bacteria
  • 4.4. Aquarium pH
  • 4.4.1. Aquarium pH is Not Important
  • 4.4.2. Buffering the Water
  • 4.4.3. Carbon Dioxide and pH
  • 4.4.4. Dropping pH
  • 4.4.5. Raising pH
  • 4.5. Water Hardness
  • 4.5.1. General Hardness
  • 4.5.2. Carbonate Hardness
  • 4.5.2.1. KH and Cycling
  • 4.6. Salts in the Water
  • 4.6.1. Trace Additives
  • 4.7. Fish Tolerance to pH
  • 4.8. “Stability” isn’t Important
  • 4.8.1. Rapid Thermal and pH Shifts
  • 4.9. Un-bagging Fish
  • 5. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Chlorine
  • 5.2. Safe Ammonia Levels
  • 5.2.1. Ammonia in Depth
  • 5.2.3. High Ammonia
  • 5.3. Safe Nitrite Levels
  • 5.3.2. Nitrite in More Depth
  • 5.4. Safe Nitrate Levels
  • 5.4.1. Nitrate in Depth
  • 5.5. Chlorine and Chloramine
  • 5.5.1. Chlorination in Depth
  • 5.5.2. Chloramines
  • 5.5.2.1. Ammonia in Chloramine
  • 5.5.3. Water Conditioners
  • 5.5.3.1. Ammonia Detoxifying
  • 5.5.3.2. Prime and Safe
  • 5.5.3.2.1. Prime, Safe and Ammonia
  • 5.5.3.2.2. Prime, Safe and Cycling
  • 5.5.3.2.3. Prime, Safe and Sodium Dithionite
  • 5.5.3.2.4. Prime, Safe and Chloramine
  • 5.5.3.2.5. Prime Concentration
  • 5.5.3.2.6. Safe Cannot be Made into Prime
  • 5.5.3.3. Conditioner Chemistry
  • 5.5.3.4. Cost of Conditioners
  • 5.5.3.5. Conditioner Testing
  • 5.5.3.6. Review of Conditioners
  • 5.5.4. Stress Coat Products
  • 6. Filtration
  • 6.1. Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.1.1. Cleaned Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.1.2. Uncleaned Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.2. Biofiltration
  • 6.2.1. Detritus Explained
  • 6.2.2. Brown Gunk
  • 6.2.3. Cloudy Water
  • 6.3. Over-filtration
  • 6.4. Crystal-Clear Water
  • 6.4.1. Crystal-Clear Water in Depth
  • 6.4.2. Polishing Filtration
  • 6.5. Water Flow Rate
  • 6.5.1. Flow Function
  • 6.5.2. Substrate as a Filter
  • 6.6. Aquaponic Filtration
  • 6.7. Nitrate Factory
  • 6.8. Thorough Cleaning
  • 6.8.1. Filter Cleaning Tests
  • 6.9. Tap Water Rinsing
  • 7. Filter Media
  • 7.1. Review of Media
  • 7.1.1. Cost of Filter Media
  • 7.1.2. Media Function
  • 7.1.3. Filter Media Test
  • 7.1.3.1. Ammonia Oxidizing Test
  • 7.1.3.2. Water Clarity Test
  • 7.2. Individual Media List
  • 7.2.1. Polyester Floss
  • 7.2.10. Growstone
  • 7.2.11. Ceramics
  • 7.2.12. Matrix
  • 7.2.13. Clay Balls
  • 7.2.14. BioHome Filter Media
  • 7.2.2. Foam Media
  • 7.2.3. K1 Media
  • 7.2.4. Pumice Perlite
  • 7.2.5. Gravel
  • 7.2.6. PP EVA Pads
  • 7.2.7. Bio Balls
  • 7.2.8. Pot Scrubbers
  • 7.2.9. Lava Rock
  • 7.3. Media Volume
  • 7.4. Chemical Filtration Media
  • 7.4.2. Activated Carbon
  • 7.4.3. Ion-Exchange Resins
  • 7.4.4. Zeolite
  • 7.4.5. Phosphate Remover
  • 7.4.6. Purigen
  • 7.4.7. Poly-Filter
  • 7.4.8. Chemi-pure
  • 7.5. Denitrifying Media
  • 7.6. Media Surface Area
  • 8. Review of Aquarium Filters
  • 8.1. Review of Filters
  • 8.1.1. Filter Test
  • 8.2. Hang-on-the-back Filters
  • 8.3. Canister Filter
  • 8.3.1. Canisters in Depth
  • 8.3.2. Do-it-yourself Canisters
  • 8.3.3. FX Series Canister Filters
  • 8.4. Sponge Filters
  • 8.5. Under Gravel Filters
  • 8.5.1. Under-Gravels in Depth
  • 8.5.2. DIY Undergravel Filter
  • 8.6. Sump Filters
  • 8.6.1. Sumps in Depth
  • 8.6.2. Static Sump Filters
  • 8.6.3. Trickle Filters
  • 8.6.4. Wet-Dry Filters
  • 8.6.5. Fluidized Beds
  • 8.6.6. Do-it-yourself Sumps
  • 8.6.7. Foam Sump
  • 8.7. Other Filters
  • 8.7.1. Sand Filters
  • 8.7.2. High Performance Filters
  • 8.7.3. Hamburg Matten Filter
  • 8.7.4. Diatomaceous Earth Filters
  • 8.7.5. DIY Bottle Filters
  • 8.7.6. Small Filters
  • 8.7.7. Bottom of the Tank Matten
  • 8.7.8. Small DIY Filters
  • 8.8. Filter and Media Design
  • 8.8.1. Sizing Filters in Depth
  • 8.9. Anaerobic Reactors
  • 8.9.1. Biocenosis Reactor
  • 8.9.2. A Feasible Reactor
  • 8.9.3. Assimilatory Denitrification
  • 9. Aeration
  • 9.1. Aeration in Depth
  • 9.2. Turbulence and Aeration
  • 9.3. Air Stones
  • 9.3.2. Cleaning Air Stones
  • 9.4. Skimmers and Spray Bars
  • 9.5. Aeration and Temperature
  • 97. Author
  • Get Started
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Tank Start Guide

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  • 1. Aquarium Basics
  • 2. Aquarium Cycling
  • 3. Fish Food
  • 4. Temperature, pH, KH and GH
  • 5. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Chlorine
  • 6. Filtration
  • 7. Filter Media
  • 8. Aquarium Filters
  • 9. Aeration
  • 10. Diseases
  • 11. Fish Disease Symptoms
  • 12. Treatment
  • 13. Stocking
  • 14. Equipment
  • 15. Planted Aquarium
  • 16. Aquarium Algae
  • 17. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 18. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 97. Author