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You are here: Home / 11.8. Twirling

11.8. Twirling

11.8. Twirling in Tropical Fish
11.8. Twirling in Tropical Fish

A common fish symptom is “spinning”, “twirling” or “whirling”. Many hobbyists mistake this with swim bladder disease. But in swim bladder the fish assume an abnormal posture. In “twirling”, there is no posture at all. This symptom is most often caused by a gram-positive bacterium. Per the book “Fundamentals of Ornamental Fish Health”, Helen Roberts, 2010, Page 181:

“The most common bacteria in this group that cause disease in fish are Streptococcus spp.; other Gram-positive genera that are closely related to Streptococcus and cause disease in fish include Lactococcus , Enterococcus , and Vagococcus . Neurological signs are extremely common in fish with streptococcal infections, and abnormal swimming behavior such as spiraling or spinning is often reported (Yanong and Francis-Floyd, 2006). High mortality may also occur.

Streptococcus infection can cause neurologic signs if it enters the brain. This infection is rare but has been found in rainbow sharks, rosy barbs, danios, and some tetras and cichlids. All fish are considered susceptible. Signs of neurologic disease caused by Streptococcus infection include spinning or spiraling in the water. Sources of infection can be environmental or from infected live foods. The source must be identified and removed to prevent future outbreaks. Antibiotics are usually used to treat Streptococcus infections. Because Streptococcus is in a special group of bacteria, the gram-positive bacteria, specific antibiotics are necessary to treat these infections”

Herichthys cyanoguttatus, red texas cichlid
Herichthys cyanoguttatus, red texas cichlid

As this is a symptom most often caused by a gram-positive bacterium, the best treatment is erythromycin (API E.M. Erythromycin, Mardel Maracyn, Thomas Labs Fish Mycin) or penicillin. Treatment needs to be in the food as fish don’t drink.

It is easy to make medicated food. Heat 1/4 cup water (two ounces or 58 milliliters, not a lot) in the microwave. Then blend seven grams of plain animal derived gelatin (Knox gelatin, one packet) into the hot solution with vigorous stirring. Take two tablespoons of dry commercial fish food (pellets or flake) and mix it with just a little of the hot water/ gelatin mixture. Add hot water/gelatin until you get a paste like consistency. If it gets too watery just add more food.

Then add roughly 1/16 teaspoon (a 1% to 2% addition) of the medication to the mud. Mix and mash the whole mass thoroughly.  Spread it out into a pancake about 1/8th inch (3 mm) thick on a plastic film or a plate. Then put in the refrigerator. If you plan on keeping it for more than two weeks put it in a small plastic bag and freeze. Note that the exact amount of medication which goes into the food is not very important. Antibiotics can be overdosed pretty much with abandon as they are only toxic in large doses over a period of months.

We should mention one twirling disease which does NOT occur in tropical fish. Myxobolus cerebralis is a twirling disease caused by feeding live tubifex worms. Some in social media have “reported” this disease to occur in cichlids from farms in Florida. But a research paper (“Whirling Disease in the United States”, Bartholomew et. al. Oregon State University, 2009) says this disease has never been found in any warm waters in the Southern United States.

And in any case, this disease is caused by feeding live tubifex worms to fish. It has about a 60% to 90% mortality rate. Commercial cichlid breeders in Florida use tubifex worms frequently for feed. If a commercial raiser of cichlids in Florida was getting a 60% to 90% mortality rate from feeding tubifex, would they continue to feed tubifex? Probably not. So, these “reports” are not accurate.

Vieja melanura, Redhead cichlid
Vieja melanura, Redhead cichlid

Another common bacterium causing twirling is fish TB (Mycobacterium). The spinal deformities common with fish TB are often present in fish with twirling. It can become like a plague with some fish like guppies, killing one off every week until the aquarium is bare. For treatments see fish TB.

Mad dashing about with some twirling is a sign a fish has been poisoned, often several days earlier. The most common poison by far is chlorine. Very high levels of ammonia (> 10 ppm.) will also give these symptoms.

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  • 1. Aquarium Basics
  • 1.1. Aquarium Beginner Guide
  • 1.1.1. The First Aquarium
  • 1.1.10. Plants and the New Hobbyist
  • 1.1.11. Ich
  • 1.1.12. How to Make Fish Thrive
  • 1.1.12.1. Guideline Example
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  • 10. Diseases
  • 10.1. Diseases in General
  • 10.10. Black Spots
  • 10.11. Tapeworms
  • 10.12. Nematodes
  • 10.12.1. Camallanus
  • 10.12.2. Capillaria
  • 10.13. Pests
  • 10.13.1. Hydra
  • 10.13.2. Detritus Worms
  • 10.13.3. Planaria
  • 10.13.4. Aquarium Leeches
  • 10.13.5. Bryozoans and Stentors
  • 10.14. Fish Lice
  • 10.15. Dwarf Gourami Disease
  • 10.16. Graphite Disease in Bettas
  • 10.2. Skin Protozoans
  • 10.2.1. All Protozoans
  • 10.2.2. Ich
  • 10.2.2.1. Ich in Depth
  • 10.2.2.2. Ich Immunity
  • 10.2.2.3. Ich Medication
  • 10.2.2.4. Ich Medications in More Depth
  • 10.2.2.5. Ineffective Ich Medications
  • 10.2.2.6. Filtration of Ich
  • 10.2.2.7. Ich and Heat
  • 10.2.3. Velvet
  • 10.2.4. Epistylis
  • 10.2.5. Chilodonella and Costia
  • 10.2.6. Tetrahymena
  • 10.2.7. Cryptobia
  • 10.3. Bacterial
  • 10.3.1. Skin Ulcers
  • 10.3.10. Red Mouth in Goldfish
  • 10.3.11. Treating Bacteria
  • 10.3.2. Mouth Rot
  • 10.3.3. Duck Lips
  • 10.3.4. Fin Rot
  • 10.3.5. Saddleback
  • 10.3.6. Red Blotches
  • 10.3.7. White Eyes
  • 10.3.8. Popeye
  • 10.3.9. Red Gills
  • 10.4. Fish Tuberculosis
  • 10.4.1. Fish TB in Depth
  • 10.4.2. Mycobacteriosis in Humans
  • 10.5. Hexamita
  • 10.6. Flukes
  • 10.7. Fish Saprolegnia
  • 10.8. Lymphocystis
  • 10.9. Anchor Worms
  • 11. Fish Disease Symptoms
  • 11.1. Hole in the Head
  • 11.1.1. Hexamita and HITH
  • 11.1.2. Spots on Head
  • 11.10. White Skin Blotches
  • 11.11. Red Skin Blotches
  • 11.12. Neon Disease
  • 11.13. Slime Coat
  • 11.14. Scaly Skin
  • 11.15. Fish not Eating
  • 11.16. Aggression
  • 11.17. Black Death
  • 11.18. Black Head Syndrome
  • 11.19. Gas Bubble Disease
  • 11.2. White Poop
  • 11.3. Malawi Bloat
  • 11.4. Dropsy
  • 11.5. Hollow Belly
  • 11.6. Swim Bladder
  • 11.7. Shimmying
  • 11.8. Twirling
  • 11.9. Spinal Deformities
  • 12. Treatment
  • 12.1. Basics of Treatment
  • 12.10. The Shotgun Approach
  • 12.2. Treatments Summary
  • 12.3. Quarantine Tanks
  • 12.4. Ineffective Medicines
  • 12.4.1. “Natural” Aquarium Medications
  • 12.4.2. Salt
  • 12.4.3. Aquarium Dyes
  • 12.4.4. Formalin
  • 12.4.5. Antiseptics
  • 12.4.6. Furan and Sulfa
  • 12.4.7. Quinine
  • 12.5. Fish Don’t Drink
  • 12.6. Sterilization
  • 12.7. Making Medicated Food
  • 12.8. Euthanizing a Fish
  • 12.9. Avoiding Disease
  • 13. Stocking
  • 13.1. Stocking Opinions
  • 13.2. Calculating Stocking Ratio
  • 13.3. Lifespan of a Fish
  • 14. Equipment
  • 14.1. UV Sterilizers
  • 14.1.1. UV in Depth
  • 14.1.2 Selecting a UV Unit
  • 14.10.Wood
  • 14.11. Fish Electrocution
  • 14.12. Silicone
  • 14.13. Aquarium Electric Cost
  • 14.14. Cleaning Old Aquariums
  • 14.15. Aquarium Aesthetics
  • 14.2. Substrates
  • 14.2.1. Sand
  • 14.2.2. Gravel
  • 14.2.3. Buffering Substrates
  • 14.2.4. Anaerobic Myth
  • 14.2.4.1. Anaerobic Science
  • 14.3. Rocks
  • 14.4. Lights
  • 14.4.1. Light Spectrums
  • 14.4.2. Obsolete Standards
  • 14.5. Piping
  • 14.6. Pumps
  • 14.7. Overflow Devices
  • 14.8. Aquarium Heaters
  • 14.9. Wavemakers
  • 15. Planted Aquarium
  • 15.1. Planted Aquariums in Depth
  • 15.10. Hybrid Planted Aquariums
  • 15.11. Many Fish Many Plants
  • 15.12. Propagating Plants
  • 15.13. Hau Planted Aquariums
  • 15.14. Low Tech Planted Aquariums
  • 15.15. Sterilizing Plants
  • 15.16. Natural Aquarium
  • 15.17. Father Fish Aquariums
  • 15.2. Fish
  • 15.3. Fish Limitations
  • 15.4. Types of Planted Tanks
  • 15.4.1. Planted Aquarium Examples
  • 15.5. Aquarium Fertilizing
  • 15.5.1. Ready Made Fertilizers
  • 15.5.2. Fertilizer Programs
  • 15.5.3. Estimative Index
  • 15.5.4. NH4 and Tabs Fertilizer
  • 15.5.5. DIY Epiphytic Fertilizer
  • 15.5.6. Fish Food Fertilizer
  • 15.5.7. DIY Fertilizers
  • 15.6. Carbon Dioxide
  • 15.6.1. Low Tech CO2
  • 15.6.2. KH pH CO2 Relationships
  • 15.6.3. High Tech CO2 Systems  
  • 15.6.4. CO2 From Food
  • 15.6.5. Liquid CO2
  • 15.6.6. Measuring CO2
  • 15.7. Plant Substrates
  • 15.8. Walstad Aquarium
  • 15.9. High Tech Planted Aquariums
  • 16. Aquarium Algae
  • 16.1. Algae Biology
  • 16.10. Water Mold
  • 16.10.1. White Fuzz
  • 16.11. Slime Mold
  • 16.12. Red Spot Algae
  • 16.13. A Few Oddities
  • 16.2. Controlling Algae
  • 16.2.1. Algae in Fish Only Tanks
  • 16.2.2. Algae in High Tech Tanks
  • 16.2.3. Algae in Low Tech Tanks
  • 16.2.4. Algae Eaters
  • 16.2.5. The Algae War
  • 16.2.6. Chemical Algae Control
  • 16.2.7. Chihiros Doctor
  • 16.3. Thread Algae
  • 16.4. Blue-Green Algae
  • 16.5. Black Beard Algae
  • 16.6. Staghorn Algae
  • 16.7. Aquarium Green Water
  • 16.8. Brown Algae
  • 16.9. Green Spot Algae
  • 17. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 17.1. Native Water Chemistries
  • 17.10. Aquarium Shrimp
  • 17.11. Discus
  • 17.11.1. Discus Husbandry
  • 17.11.2. Filtration for Discus
  • 17.11.3. Water for Discus
  • 17.11.4. Food for Discus
  • 17.11.5. Discus Pheromones
  • 17.11.6. Breeding Discus
  • 17.11.7. Discus Photos
  • 17.12. Axolotl
  • 17.2. Biotopes
  • 17.2.1. Blackwater Biotope
  • 17.3. Blackwater Fish
  • 17.4. Lake Malawi Cichlids
  • 17.4.1. Malawi Aquariums
  • 17.5. Goldfish
  • 17.5.1. Types of Goldfish
  • 17.5.2. Size of Goldfish
  • 17.5.3. Stocking Goldfish
  • 17.5.4. Goldfish Care
  • 17.6. Guppies and Livebearers
  • 17.7. Aquarium Bettas
  • 17.8 Oscars
  • 17.9. Nano Aquarium
  • 18. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 18.1. Aquarium Water Changes
  • 18.1.1. Water Changes in Depth
  • 18.1.2. Aquarium Water Change Math
  • 18.1.3. Water Change Water
  • 18.1.4. Softened, RO, DI, TDS
  • 18.2. Drip Water Changes
  • 18.3. Cleaning the Substrate
  • 18.4. Cleaning a Filter
  • 18.5. Heavy Stocked Maintenance
  • 18.6. Old Tank Syndrome
  • 18.7. Sick Tank Syndrome
  • 2. Aquarium Cycling
  • 2.1. Fish-less Cycling
  • 2.10. Nitrogen Cycle
  • 2.11. Inoculate for Cycling
  • 2.12. Beneficial Bacteria
  • 2.13. Cycling Test
  • 2.14. The Mature Aquarium
  • 2.15. Cycling a Planted Aquarium
  • 2.2. Many Ways to Cycle
  • 2.3. How I Cycle
  • 2.4. Cycling with Ammonia
  • 2.4.1. Dr. Tim’s Cycling Method
  • 2.5. Aquarium Fish-in Cycling
  • 2.5.1. Fish-in Cycling Science
  • 2.5.2. Rapid Fish-in Cycling
  • 2.6. Not Cycling at All
  • 2.7. New Tank Syndrome
  • 2.8. Bacteria-in-a-bottle
  • 2.8.1. Bacteria in a Bottle in Depth
  • 2.8.2. Sludge Removing Bacteria
  • 2.9. Instant Cycling Chemicals
  • 3. Fish Food
  • 3.1. Insignificance of Food
  • 3.1.1. Fish Food Science
  • 3.2. Fish Diet Specializations
  • 3.3. Amount of Fish Food
  • 3.3.1. Amount in Depth
  • 3.4. Gel Fish Food
  • 3.5. Breaking Up Food
  • 3.6. Dry Fish Food
  • 3.6.1. Dry Fish Food in Depth
  • 3.7. Banned Fish Food
  • 3.8. Food and Malawi Bloat
  • 3.9. Fish Food and Gunk
  • 4. Temperature, pH, KH and GH
  • 4.1. Importance of Water
  • 4.10. ORP or Redox
  • 4.11. Tank Syndromes
  • 4.2. Aquarium Temperatures
  • 4.3. Free Floating Bacteria
  • 4.4. Aquarium pH
  • 4.4.1. Aquarium pH is Not Important
  • 4.4.2. Buffering the Water
  • 4.4.3. Carbon Dioxide and pH
  • 4.4.4. Dropping pH
  • 4.4.5. Raising pH
  • 4.5. Water Hardness
  • 4.5.1. General Hardness
  • 4.5.2. Carbonate Hardness
  • 4.5.2.1. KH and Cycling
  • 4.6. Salts in the Water
  • 4.6.1. Trace Additives
  • 4.7. Fish Tolerance to pH
  • 4.8. “Stability” isn’t Important
  • 4.8.1. Rapid Thermal and pH Shifts
  • 4.9. Un-bagging Fish
  • 5. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Chlorine
  • 5.2. Safe Ammonia Levels
  • 5.2.1. Ammonia in Depth
  • 5.2.3. High Ammonia
  • 5.3. Safe Nitrite Levels
  • 5.3.2. Nitrite in More Depth
  • 5.4. Safe Nitrate Levels
  • 5.4.1. Nitrate in Depth
  • 5.5. Chlorine and Chloramine
  • 5.5.1. Chlorination in Depth
  • 5.5.2. Chloramines
  • 5.5.2.1. Ammonia in Chloramine
  • 5.5.3. Water Conditioners
  • 5.5.3.1. Ammonia Detoxifying
  • 5.5.3.2. Prime and Safe
  • 5.5.3.2.1. Prime, Safe and Ammonia
  • 5.5.3.2.2. Prime, Safe and Cycling
  • 5.5.3.2.3. Prime, Safe and Sodium Dithionite
  • 5.5.3.2.4. Prime, Safe and Chloramine
  • 5.5.3.2.5. Prime Concentration
  • 5.5.3.2.6. Safe Cannot be Made into Prime
  • 5.5.3.3. Conditioner Chemistry
  • 5.5.3.4. Cost of Conditioners
  • 5.5.3.5. Conditioner Testing
  • 5.5.3.6. Review of Conditioners
  • 5.5.4. Stress Coat Products
  • 6. Filtration
  • 6.1. Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.1.1. Cleaned Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.1.2. Uncleaned Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.2. Biofiltration
  • 6.2.1. Detritus Explained
  • 6.2.2. Brown Gunk
  • 6.2.3. Cloudy Water
  • 6.3. Over-filtration
  • 6.4. Crystal-Clear Water
  • 6.4.1. Crystal-Clear Water in Depth
  • 6.4.2. Polishing Filtration
  • 6.5. Water Flow Rate
  • 6.5.1. Flow Function
  • 6.5.2. Substrate as a Filter
  • 6.6. Aquaponic Filtration
  • 6.7. Nitrate Factory
  • 6.8. Thorough Cleaning
  • 6.8.1. Filter Cleaning Tests
  • 6.9. Tap Water Rinsing
  • 7. Filter Media
  • 7.1. Review of Media
  • 7.1.1. Cost of Filter Media
  • 7.1.2. Media Function
  • 7.1.3. Filter Media Test
  • 7.1.3.1. Ammonia Oxidizing Test
  • 7.1.3.2. Water Clarity Test
  • 7.2. Individual Media List
  • 7.2.1. Polyester Floss
  • 7.2.10. Growstone
  • 7.2.11. Ceramics
  • 7.2.12. Matrix
  • 7.2.13. Clay Balls
  • 7.2.14. BioHome Filter Media
  • 7.2.2. Foam Media
  • 7.2.3. K1 Media
  • 7.2.4. Pumice Perlite
  • 7.2.5. Gravel
  • 7.2.6. PP EVA Pads
  • 7.2.7. Bio Balls
  • 7.2.8. Pot Scrubbers
  • 7.2.9. Lava Rock
  • 7.3. Media Volume
  • 7.4. Chemical Filtration Media
  • 7.4.2. Activated Carbon
  • 7.4.3. Ion-Exchange Resins
  • 7.4.4. Zeolite
  • 7.4.5. Phosphate Remover
  • 7.4.6. Purigen
  • 7.4.7. Poly-Filter
  • 7.4.8. Chemi-pure
  • 7.5. Denitrifying Media
  • 7.6. Media Surface Area
  • 8. Review of Aquarium Filters
  • 8.1. Review of Filters
  • 8.1.1. Filter Test
  • 8.2. Hang-on-the-back Filters
  • 8.3. Canister Filter
  • 8.3.1. Canisters in Depth
  • 8.3.2. Do-it-yourself Canisters
  • 8.3.3. FX Series Canister Filters
  • 8.4. Sponge Filters
  • 8.5. Under Gravel Filters
  • 8.5.1. Under-Gravels in Depth
  • 8.5.2. DIY Undergravel Filter
  • 8.6. Sump Filters
  • 8.6.1. Sumps in Depth
  • 8.6.2. Static Sump Filters
  • 8.6.3. Trickle Filters
  • 8.6.4. Wet-Dry Filters
  • 8.6.5. Fluidized Beds
  • 8.6.6. Do-it-yourself Sumps
  • 8.6.7. Foam Sump
  • 8.7. Other Filters
  • 8.7.1. Sand Filters
  • 8.7.2. High Performance Filters
  • 8.7.3. Hamburg Matten Filter
  • 8.7.4. Diatomaceous Earth Filters
  • 8.7.5. DIY Bottle Filters
  • 8.7.6. Small Filters
  • 8.7.7. Bottom of the Tank Matten
  • 8.7.8. Small DIY Filters
  • 8.8. Filter and Media Design
  • 8.8.1. Sizing Filters in Depth
  • 8.9. Anaerobic Reactors
  • 8.9.1. Biocenosis Reactor
  • 8.9.2. A Feasible Reactor
  • 8.9.3. Assimilatory Denitrification
  • 9. Aeration
  • 9.1. Aeration in Depth
  • 9.2. Turbulence and Aeration
  • 9.3. Air Stones
  • 9.3.2. Cleaning Air Stones
  • 9.4. Skimmers and Spray Bars
  • 9.5. Aeration and Temperature
  • 97. Author
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  • 1. Aquarium Basics
  • 2. Aquarium Cycling
  • 3. Fish Food
  • 4. Temperature, pH, KH and GH
  • 5. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Chlorine
  • 6. Filtration
  • 7. Filter Media
  • 8. Aquarium Filters
  • 9. Aeration
  • 10. Diseases
  • 11. Fish Disease Symptoms
  • 12. Treatment
  • 13. Stocking
  • 14. Equipment
  • 15. Planted Aquarium
  • 16. Aquarium Algae
  • 17. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 18. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 97. Author