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You are here: Home / 11.7. Shimmying

11.7. Shimmying

11.7 Shimmying in Tropical Fish
11.7 Shimmying in Tropical Fish

Fish suffering from the shimmies rapidly quiver as they swim, rocking from side to side. Shimmying is a symptom rather than a single disease, and an indication that a fish no longer has proper control of its nerves and muscles.

All of the following can cause shimmies:

  • Genetics (especially the molly)
  • An internal bacterial infection of the brain
  • Chlorine in the change water
  • Very poor water quality
  • Aerosols such as disinfectants or floor cleaners close to the fish tank
  • High bacteria count in the water
  • Bacterial toxins from a decaying fish or fish food

A common cause of shimmies is chlorine in the water from a super chlorination event. Since this chlorine caused shimmying will occur concurrent with a large water change many hobbyists come to the conclusion that a large water change will cause shimmies. The old saying is “correlation is not causation”.  A large water change is NOT a cause for shimmying.  One can do a 100% water change with impunity as long as all the chlorine has been neutralized (with the notable exception of well water, which often has no oxygen in it and can suffocate fish).

Mollies are especially prone to the shimmies because of genetics. Mollies have been bred from many distinct species. Then they have been repeatedly line bred. As a result Mollies tend to “break down” in their genetics. So mollies are very genetically prone to the “shimmies”. This genetic “break down” also occurs in guppies, a species which has a broad distribution in nature. The other livebearers, platies and swordtails, are all descended from a single species which a relatively small distribution. So they don’t “break down” when line bred.

The male molly shimmies in the courtship display. In mollies which have been line bred too much this seems to be amplified to the point where the fish can no longer control themselves. Both male and female mollies start shimmying in place in the aquarium. There is little one can do for such genetically flawed fish.

Poecilia sphenops, Dalmation Molly
Poecilia sphenops, Dalmation Molly

Many claim that soft, acid water causes shimmies in mollies. There is no science that backs this claim. But it won’t hurt to add one teaspoon baking soda and one tablespoon salt per ten gallons to the aquarium where the platies or mollies has the shimmies. Some crushed coral in the filter will harden the water. Call it a placebo for the fish hobbyist.

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Pages

  • 1. Aquarium Basics
  • 1.1. Aquarium Beginner Guide
  • 1.1.1. The First Aquarium
  • 1.1.10. Plants and the New Hobbyist
  • 1.1.11. Ich
  • 1.1.12. How to Make Fish Thrive
  • 1.1.12.1. Guideline Example
  • 1.1.12.2. Unimportant Aquarium Parameters
  • 1.1.13. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 1.1.14. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 1.1.2. A Simple Way to Cycle
  • 1.1.3. Fish Food
  • 1.1.4. Water Parameters
  • 1.1.5. Filters
  • 1.1.6. Filter Media
  • 1.1.7. Aeration
  • 1.1.8. Stocking
  • 1.1.9. “Brown Algae”
  • 1.2. Falsehoods and Myths
  • 1.3. False Marketing Claims
  • 1.4. Sources of Data
  • 1.4.1. Facebook Fake Accounts
  • 1.5. Aquarium Options
  • 1.5.1. Aquarium Examples
  • 1.6. Aquarium Fast Fish Deaths
  • 1.7. Aquarium Slow Fish Deaths
  • 10. Diseases
  • 10.1. Diseases in General
  • 10.10. Black Spots
  • 10.11. Tapeworms
  • 10.12. Nematodes
  • 10.12.1. Camallanus
  • 10.12.2. Capillaria
  • 10.13. Pests
  • 10.13.1. Hydra
  • 10.13.2. Detritus Worms
  • 10.13.3. Planaria
  • 10.13.4. Aquarium Leeches
  • 10.13.5. Bryozoans and Stentors
  • 10.14. Fish Lice
  • 10.15. Dwarf Gourami Disease
  • 10.16. Graphite Disease in Bettas
  • 10.2. Skin Protozoans
  • 10.2.1. All Protozoans
  • 10.2.2. Ich
  • 10.2.2.1. Ich in Depth
  • 10.2.2.2. Ich Immunity
  • 10.2.2.3. Ich Medication
  • 10.2.2.4. Ich Medications in More Depth
  • 10.2.2.5. Ineffective Ich Medications
  • 10.2.2.6. Filtration of Ich
  • 10.2.2.7. Ich and Heat
  • 10.2.3. Velvet
  • 10.2.4. Epistylis
  • 10.2.5. Chilodonella and Costia
  • 10.2.6. Tetrahymena
  • 10.2.7. Cryptobia
  • 10.3. Bacterial
  • 10.3.1. Skin Ulcers
  • 10.3.10. Red Mouth in Goldfish
  • 10.3.11. Treating Bacteria
  • 10.3.2. Mouth Rot
  • 10.3.3. Duck Lips
  • 10.3.4. Fin Rot
  • 10.3.5. Saddleback
  • 10.3.6. Red Blotches
  • 10.3.7. White Eyes
  • 10.3.8. Popeye
  • 10.3.9. Red Gills
  • 10.4. Fish Tuberculosis
  • 10.4.1. Fish TB in Depth
  • 10.4.2. Mycobacteriosis in Humans
  • 10.5. Hexamita
  • 10.6. Flukes
  • 10.7. Fish Saprolegnia
  • 10.8. Lymphocystis
  • 10.9. Anchor Worms
  • 11. Fish Disease Symptoms
  • 11.1. Hole in the Head
  • 11.1.1. Hexamita and HITH
  • 11.1.2. Spots on Head
  • 11.10. White Skin Blotches
  • 11.11. Red Skin Blotches
  • 11.12. Neon Disease
  • 11.13. Slime Coat
  • 11.14. Scaly Skin
  • 11.15. Fish not Eating
  • 11.16. Aggression
  • 11.17. Black Death
  • 11.18. Black Head Syndrome
  • 11.19. Gas Bubble Disease
  • 11.2. White Poop
  • 11.3. Malawi Bloat
  • 11.4. Dropsy
  • 11.5. Hollow Belly
  • 11.6. Swim Bladder
  • 11.7. Shimmying
  • 11.8. Twirling
  • 11.9. Spinal Deformities
  • 12. Treatment
  • 12.1. Basics of Treatment
  • 12.10. The Shotgun Approach
  • 12.2. Treatments Summary
  • 12.3. Quarantine Tanks
  • 12.4. Ineffective Medicines
  • 12.4.1. “Natural” Aquarium Medications
  • 12.4.2. Salt
  • 12.4.3. Aquarium Dyes
  • 12.4.4. Formalin
  • 12.4.5. Antiseptics
  • 12.4.6. Furan and Sulfa
  • 12.4.7. Quinine
  • 12.5. Fish Don’t Drink
  • 12.6. Sterilization
  • 12.7. Making Medicated Food
  • 12.8. Euthanizing a Fish
  • 12.9. Avoiding Disease
  • 13. Stocking
  • 13.1. Stocking Opinions
  • 13.2. Calculating Stocking Ratio
  • 13.3. Lifespan of a Fish
  • 14. Equipment
  • 14.1. UV Sterilizers
  • 14.1.1. UV in Depth
  • 14.1.2 Selecting a UV Unit
  • 14.10.Wood
  • 14.11. Fish Electrocution
  • 14.12. Silicone
  • 14.13. Aquarium Electric Cost
  • 14.14. Cleaning Old Aquariums
  • 14.15. Aquarium Aesthetics
  • 14.2. Substrates
  • 14.2.1. Sand
  • 14.2.2. Gravel
  • 14.2.3. Buffering Substrates
  • 14.2.4. Anaerobic Myth
  • 14.2.4.1. Anaerobic Science
  • 14.3. Rocks
  • 14.4. Lights
  • 14.4.1. Light Spectrums
  • 14.4.2. Obsolete Standards
  • 14.5. Piping
  • 14.6. Pumps
  • 14.7. Overflow Devices
  • 14.8. Aquarium Heaters
  • 14.9. Wavemakers
  • 15. Planted Aquarium
  • 15.1. Planted Aquariums in Depth
  • 15.10. Hybrid Planted Aquariums
  • 15.11. Many Fish Many Plants
  • 15.12. Propagating Plants
  • 15.13. Hau Planted Aquariums
  • 15.14. Low Tech Planted Aquariums
  • 15.15. Sterilizing Plants
  • 15.16. Natural Aquarium
  • 15.17. Father Fish Aquariums
  • 15.2. Fish
  • 15.3. Fish Limitations
  • 15.4. Types of Planted Tanks
  • 15.4.1. Planted Aquarium Examples
  • 15.5. Aquarium Fertilizing
  • 15.5.1. Ready Made Fertilizers
  • 15.5.2. Fertilizer Programs
  • 15.5.3. Estimative Index
  • 15.5.4. NH4 and Tabs Fertilizer
  • 15.5.5. DIY Epiphytic Fertilizer
  • 15.5.6. Fish Food Fertilizer
  • 15.5.7. DIY Fertilizers
  • 15.6. Carbon Dioxide
  • 15.6.1. Low Tech CO2
  • 15.6.2. KH pH CO2 Relationships
  • 15.6.3. High Tech CO2 Systems  
  • 15.6.4. CO2 From Food
  • 15.6.5. Liquid CO2
  • 15.6.6. Measuring CO2
  • 15.7. Plant Substrates
  • 15.8. Walstad Aquarium
  • 15.9. High Tech Planted Aquariums
  • 16. Aquarium Algae
  • 16.1. Algae Biology
  • 16.10. Water Mold
  • 16.10.1. White Fuzz
  • 16.11. Slime Mold
  • 16.12. Red Spot Algae
  • 16.13. A Few Oddities
  • 16.2. Controlling Algae
  • 16.2.1. Algae in Fish Only Tanks
  • 16.2.2. Algae in High Tech Tanks
  • 16.2.3. Algae in Low Tech Tanks
  • 16.2.4. Algae Eaters
  • 16.2.5. The Algae War
  • 16.2.6. Chemical Algae Control
  • 16.2.7. Chihiros Doctor
  • 16.3. Thread Algae
  • 16.4. Blue-Green Algae
  • 16.5. Black Beard Algae
  • 16.6. Staghorn Algae
  • 16.7. Aquarium Green Water
  • 16.8. Brown Algae
  • 16.9. Green Spot Algae
  • 17. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 17.1. Native Water Chemistries
  • 17.10. Aquarium Shrimp
  • 17.11. Discus
  • 17.11.1. Discus Husbandry
  • 17.11.2. Filtration for Discus
  • 17.11.3. Water for Discus
  • 17.11.4. Food for Discus
  • 17.11.5. Discus Pheromones
  • 17.11.6. Breeding Discus
  • 17.11.7. Discus Photos
  • 17.12. Axolotl
  • 17.2. Biotopes
  • 17.2.1. Blackwater Biotope
  • 17.3. Blackwater Fish
  • 17.4. Lake Malawi Cichlids
  • 17.4.1. Malawi Aquariums
  • 17.5. Goldfish
  • 17.5.1. Types of Goldfish
  • 17.5.2. Size of Goldfish
  • 17.5.3. Stocking Goldfish
  • 17.5.4. Goldfish Care
  • 17.6. Guppies and Livebearers
  • 17.7. Aquarium Bettas
  • 17.8 Oscars
  • 17.9. Nano Aquarium
  • 18. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 18.1. Aquarium Water Changes
  • 18.1.1. Water Changes in Depth
  • 18.1.2. Aquarium Water Change Math
  • 18.1.3. Water Change Water
  • 18.1.4. Softened, RO, DI, TDS
  • 18.2. Drip Water Changes
  • 18.3. Cleaning the Substrate
  • 18.4. Cleaning a Filter
  • 18.5. Heavy Stocked Maintenance
  • 18.6. Old Tank Syndrome
  • 18.7. Sick Tank Syndrome
  • 2. Aquarium Cycling
  • 2.1. Fish-less Cycling
  • 2.10. Nitrogen Cycle
  • 2.11. Inoculate for Cycling
  • 2.12. Beneficial Bacteria
  • 2.13. Cycling Test
  • 2.14. The Mature Aquarium
  • 2.15. Cycling a Planted Aquarium
  • 2.2. Many Ways to Cycle
  • 2.3. How I Cycle
  • 2.4. Cycling with Ammonia
  • 2.4.1. Dr. Tim’s Cycling Method
  • 2.5. Aquarium Fish-in Cycling
  • 2.5.1. Fish-in Cycling Science
  • 2.5.2. Rapid Fish-in Cycling
  • 2.6. Not Cycling at All
  • 2.7. New Tank Syndrome
  • 2.8. Bacteria-in-a-bottle
  • 2.8.1. Bacteria in a Bottle in Depth
  • 2.8.2. Sludge Removing Bacteria
  • 2.9. Instant Cycling Chemicals
  • 3. Fish Food
  • 3.1. Insignificance of Food
  • 3.1.1. Fish Food Science
  • 3.2. Fish Diet Specializations
  • 3.3. Amount of Fish Food
  • 3.3.1. Amount in Depth
  • 3.4. Gel Fish Food
  • 3.5. Breaking Up Food
  • 3.6. Dry Fish Food
  • 3.6.1. Dry Fish Food in Depth
  • 3.7. Banned Fish Food
  • 3.8. Food and Malawi Bloat
  • 3.9. Fish Food and Gunk
  • 4. Temperature, pH, KH and GH
  • 4.1. Importance of Water
  • 4.10. ORP or Redox
  • 4.11. Tank Syndromes
  • 4.2. Aquarium Temperatures
  • 4.3. Free Floating Bacteria
  • 4.4. Aquarium pH
  • 4.4.1. Aquarium pH is Not Important
  • 4.4.2. Buffering the Water
  • 4.4.3. Carbon Dioxide and pH
  • 4.4.4. Dropping pH
  • 4.4.5. Raising pH
  • 4.5. Water Hardness
  • 4.5.1. General Hardness
  • 4.5.2. Carbonate Hardness
  • 4.5.2.1. KH and Cycling
  • 4.6. Salts in the Water
  • 4.6.1. Trace Additives
  • 4.7. Fish Tolerance to pH
  • 4.8. “Stability” isn’t Important
  • 4.8.1. Rapid Thermal and pH Shifts
  • 4.9. Un-bagging Fish
  • 5. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Chlorine
  • 5.2. Safe Ammonia Levels
  • 5.2.1. Ammonia in Depth
  • 5.2.3. High Ammonia
  • 5.3. Safe Nitrite Levels
  • 5.3.2. Nitrite in More Depth
  • 5.4. Safe Nitrate Levels
  • 5.4.1. Nitrate in Depth
  • 5.5. Chlorine and Chloramine
  • 5.5.1. Chlorination in Depth
  • 5.5.2. Chloramines
  • 5.5.2.1. Ammonia in Chloramine
  • 5.5.3. Water Conditioners
  • 5.5.3.1. Ammonia Detoxifying
  • 5.5.3.2. Prime and Safe
  • 5.5.3.2.1. Prime, Safe and Ammonia
  • 5.5.3.2.2. Prime, Safe and Cycling
  • 5.5.3.2.3. Prime, Safe and Sodium Dithionite
  • 5.5.3.2.4. Prime, Safe and Chloramine
  • 5.5.3.2.5. Prime Concentration
  • 5.5.3.2.6. Safe Cannot be Made into Prime
  • 5.5.3.3. Conditioner Chemistry
  • 5.5.3.4. Cost of Conditioners
  • 5.5.3.5. Conditioner Testing
  • 5.5.3.6. Review of Conditioners
  • 5.5.4. Stress Coat Products
  • 6. Filtration
  • 6.1. Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.1.1. Cleaned Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.1.2. Uncleaned Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.2. Biofiltration
  • 6.2.1. Detritus Explained
  • 6.2.2. Brown Gunk
  • 6.2.3. Cloudy Water
  • 6.3. Over-filtration
  • 6.4. Crystal-Clear Water
  • 6.4.1. Crystal-Clear Water in Depth
  • 6.4.2. Polishing Filtration
  • 6.5. Water Flow Rate
  • 6.5.1. Flow Function
  • 6.5.2. Substrate as a Filter
  • 6.6. Aquaponic Filtration
  • 6.7. Nitrate Factory
  • 6.8. Thorough Cleaning
  • 6.8.1. Filter Cleaning Tests
  • 6.9. Tap Water Rinsing
  • 7. Filter Media
  • 7.1. Review of Media
  • 7.1.1. Cost of Filter Media
  • 7.1.2. Media Function
  • 7.1.3. Filter Media Test
  • 7.1.3.1. Ammonia Oxidizing Test
  • 7.1.3.2. Water Clarity Test
  • 7.2. Individual Media List
  • 7.2.1. Polyester Floss
  • 7.2.10. Growstone
  • 7.2.11. Ceramics
  • 7.2.12. Matrix
  • 7.2.13. Clay Balls
  • 7.2.14. BioHome Filter Media
  • 7.2.2. Foam Media
  • 7.2.3. K1 Media
  • 7.2.4. Pumice Perlite
  • 7.2.5. Gravel
  • 7.2.6. PP EVA Pads
  • 7.2.7. Bio Balls
  • 7.2.8. Pot Scrubbers
  • 7.2.9. Lava Rock
  • 7.3. Media Volume
  • 7.4. Chemical Filtration Media
  • 7.4.2. Activated Carbon
  • 7.4.3. Ion-Exchange Resins
  • 7.4.4. Zeolite
  • 7.4.5. Phosphate Remover
  • 7.4.6. Purigen
  • 7.4.7. Poly-Filter
  • 7.4.8. Chemi-pure
  • 7.5. Denitrifying Media
  • 7.6. Media Surface Area
  • 8. Review of Aquarium Filters
  • 8.1. Review of Filters
  • 8.1.1. Filter Test
  • 8.2. Hang-on-the-back Filters
  • 8.3. Canister Filter
  • 8.3.1. Canisters in Depth
  • 8.3.2. Do-it-yourself Canisters
  • 8.3.3. FX Series Canister Filters
  • 8.4. Sponge Filters
  • 8.5. Under Gravel Filters
  • 8.5.1. Under-Gravels in Depth
  • 8.5.2. DIY Undergravel Filter
  • 8.6. Sump Filters
  • 8.6.1. Sumps in Depth
  • 8.6.2. Static Sump Filters
  • 8.6.3. Trickle Filters
  • 8.6.4. Wet-Dry Filters
  • 8.6.5. Fluidized Beds
  • 8.6.6. Do-it-yourself Sumps
  • 8.6.7. Foam Sump
  • 8.7. Other Filters
  • 8.7.1. Sand Filters
  • 8.7.2. High Performance Filters
  • 8.7.3. Hamburg Matten Filter
  • 8.7.4. Diatomaceous Earth Filters
  • 8.7.5. DIY Bottle Filters
  • 8.7.6. Small Filters
  • 8.7.7. Bottom of the Tank Matten
  • 8.7.8. Small DIY Filters
  • 8.8. Filter and Media Design
  • 8.8.1. Sizing Filters in Depth
  • 8.9. Anaerobic Reactors
  • 8.9.1. Biocenosis Reactor
  • 8.9.2. A Feasible Reactor
  • 8.9.3. Assimilatory Denitrification
  • 9. Aeration
  • 9.1. Aeration in Depth
  • 9.2. Turbulence and Aeration
  • 9.3. Air Stones
  • 9.3.2. Cleaning Air Stones
  • 9.4. Skimmers and Spray Bars
  • 9.5. Aeration and Temperature
  • 97. Author
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  • 1. Aquarium Basics
  • 2. Aquarium Cycling
  • 3. Fish Food
  • 4. Temperature, pH, KH and GH
  • 5. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Chlorine
  • 6. Filtration
  • 7. Filter Media
  • 8. Aquarium Filters
  • 9. Aeration
  • 10. Diseases
  • 11. Fish Disease Symptoms
  • 12. Treatment
  • 13. Stocking
  • 14. Equipment
  • 15. Planted Aquarium
  • 16. Aquarium Algae
  • 17. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 18. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 97. Author