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You are here: Home / 11.19. Gas Bubble Disease

11.19. Gas Bubble Disease

11.19. Gas Bubble Disease
11.19. Gas Bubble Disease

“Gas Bubble Disease” is where many gas bubbles form in a fish and literally cause the fish to get the “bends”.

Water that is very cold can absorb much more air in solution than warm water. Say warm water (25 degrees C.) can have 20 ppm air dissolved in it while cold water (10 degrees C.) can have 40 ppm air dissolved in it. The same is true for pressure, water under pressure can dissolve say 40 ppm air while water at atmospheric pressure can dissolve 20 ppm. The 40 ppm water is called “super saturated”.

Living tissues also absorb air into their fluid. If a diver breaths air at a high pressure for half an hour or more the air will dissolve into the tissue fluids at 40 ppm. If the diver ascends too rapidly the air can come out as small bubbles which cause the “bends”. One can die from the bends.

Sciaenochromis fryeri Iceberg
Sciaenochromis fryeri Iceberg

If a fish such as a goldfish were swimming in 10 degree C. water and were suddenly transferred to 25 degree C. water, air can come out in their tissues and produce the bends in the goldfish. A fish swimming in deep water which is suddenly thrust to the surface can also have the bends (although some fish have some unique mechanisms to take care of such events).

There was a video by Steenfott Aquatics about a fish breeding operation called Dan’s Fish.  In this operation water is switched out on a 24 hour a day/ seven day a week operation with a no filtration daily 200% water change system. Very cold water (less than 10 degrees C, 50 degrees F) is run through a heat exchanger. A heat exchanger rapidly raises the temperature. Warm water cannot hold as much gas as cold water. So the excess gas will bubble out over a short length of time (roughly thirty minutes).

When the water is put into the aquariums at Dan’s Fish without being degassed, the supersaturated water forms bubbles which attach to everything, including the fish. This can kill the fish. So Dan’s Fish have added a very large aerator device to remove the excess air.

Mesoheros festae
Mesoheros festae

It is theoretically possible to have supersaturated water out of the tap. If water saturated with air comes into a home at say 50 degrees. And a mix of that water gets heated to an average of say 75 degrees while under pressure. This water could be supersaturated with air.

During a large water change this water could conceivably affect fish. But the aeration on pretty much any tank should resolve the problem long before any fish gets gas bubble disease. So I suspect this is a disease one doesn’t have to worry about in a home aquarium.

Astronotus ocellatus Long Fin Red Chili
Astronotus ocellatus Long Fin Red Chili

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  • 1. Aquarium Basics
  • 1.1. Aquarium Beginner Guide
  • 1.1.1. The First Aquarium
  • 1.1.10. Plants and the New Hobbyist
  • 1.1.11. Ich
  • 1.1.12. How to Make Fish Thrive
  • 1.1.12.1. Guideline Example
  • 1.1.12.2. Unimportant Aquarium Parameters
  • 1.1.13. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 1.1.14. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 1.1.2. A Simple Way to Cycle
  • 1.1.3. Fish Food
  • 1.1.4. Water Parameters
  • 1.1.5. Filters
  • 1.1.6. Filter Media
  • 1.1.7. Aeration
  • 1.1.8. Stocking
  • 1.1.9. “Brown Algae”
  • 1.2. Falsehoods and Myths
  • 1.3. False Marketing Claims
  • 1.4. Sources of Data
  • 1.4.1. Facebook Fake Accounts
  • 1.5. Aquarium Options
  • 1.5.1. Aquarium Examples
  • 1.6. Aquarium Fast Fish Deaths
  • 1.7. Aquarium Slow Fish Deaths
  • 10. Diseases
  • 10.1. Diseases in General
  • 10.10. Black Spots
  • 10.11. Tapeworms
  • 10.12. Nematodes
  • 10.12.1. Camallanus
  • 10.12.2. Capillaria
  • 10.13. Pests
  • 10.13.1. Hydra
  • 10.13.2. Detritus Worms
  • 10.13.3. Planaria
  • 10.13.4. Aquarium Leeches
  • 10.13.5. Bryozoans and Stentors
  • 10.14. Fish Lice
  • 10.15. Dwarf Gourami Disease
  • 10.16. Graphite Disease in Bettas
  • 10.2. Skin Protozoans
  • 10.2.1. All Protozoans
  • 10.2.2. Ich
  • 10.2.2.1. Ich in Depth
  • 10.2.2.2. Ich Immunity
  • 10.2.2.3. Ich Medication
  • 10.2.2.4. Ich Medications in More Depth
  • 10.2.2.5. Ineffective Ich Medications
  • 10.2.2.6. Filtration of Ich
  • 10.2.2.7. Ich and Heat
  • 10.2.3. Velvet
  • 10.2.4. Epistylis
  • 10.2.5. Chilodonella and Costia
  • 10.2.6. Tetrahymena
  • 10.2.7. Cryptobia
  • 10.3. Bacterial
  • 10.3.1. Skin Ulcers
  • 10.3.10. Red Mouth in Goldfish
  • 10.3.11. Treating Bacteria
  • 10.3.2. Mouth Rot
  • 10.3.3. Duck Lips
  • 10.3.4. Fin Rot
  • 10.3.5. Saddleback
  • 10.3.6. Red Blotches
  • 10.3.7. White Eyes
  • 10.3.8. Popeye
  • 10.3.9. Red Gills
  • 10.4. Fish Tuberculosis
  • 10.4.1. Fish TB in Depth
  • 10.4.2. Mycobacteriosis in Humans
  • 10.5. Hexamita
  • 10.6. Flukes
  • 10.7. Fish Saprolegnia
  • 10.8. Lymphocystis
  • 10.9. Anchor Worms
  • 11. Fish Disease Symptoms
  • 11.1. Hole in the Head
  • 11.1.1. Hexamita and HITH
  • 11.1.2. Spots on Head
  • 11.10. White Skin Blotches
  • 11.11. Red Skin Blotches
  • 11.12. Neon Disease
  • 11.13. Slime Coat
  • 11.14. Scaly Skin
  • 11.15. Fish not Eating
  • 11.16. Aggression
  • 11.17. Black Death
  • 11.18. Black Head Syndrome
  • 11.19. Gas Bubble Disease
  • 11.2. White Poop
  • 11.3. Malawi Bloat
  • 11.4. Dropsy
  • 11.5. Hollow Belly
  • 11.6. Swim Bladder
  • 11.7. Shimmying
  • 11.8. Twirling
  • 11.9. Spinal Deformities
  • 12. Treatment
  • 12.1. Basics of Treatment
  • 12.10. The Shotgun Approach
  • 12.2. Treatments Summary
  • 12.3. Quarantine Tanks
  • 12.4. Ineffective Medicines
  • 12.4.1. “Natural” Aquarium Medications
  • 12.4.2. Salt
  • 12.4.3. Aquarium Dyes
  • 12.4.4. Formalin
  • 12.4.5. Antiseptics
  • 12.4.6. Furan and Sulfa
  • 12.4.7. Quinine
  • 12.5. Fish Don’t Drink
  • 12.6. Sterilization
  • 12.7. Making Medicated Food
  • 12.8. Euthanizing a Fish
  • 12.9. Avoiding Disease
  • 13. Stocking
  • 13.1. Stocking Opinions
  • 13.2. Calculating Stocking Ratio
  • 13.3. Lifespan of a Fish
  • 14. Equipment
  • 14.1. UV Sterilizers
  • 14.1.1. UV in Depth
  • 14.1.2 Selecting a UV Unit
  • 14.10.Wood
  • 14.11. Fish Electrocution
  • 14.12. Silicone
  • 14.13. Aquarium Electric Cost
  • 14.14. Cleaning Old Aquariums
  • 14.15. Aquarium Aesthetics
  • 14.2. Substrates
  • 14.2.1. Sand
  • 14.2.2. Gravel
  • 14.2.3. Buffering Substrates
  • 14.2.4. Anaerobic Myth
  • 14.2.4.1. Anaerobic Science
  • 14.3. Rocks
  • 14.4. Lights
  • 14.4.1. Light Spectrums
  • 14.4.2. Obsolete Standards
  • 14.5. Piping
  • 14.6. Pumps
  • 14.7. Overflow Devices
  • 14.8. Aquarium Heaters
  • 14.9. Wavemakers
  • 15. Planted Aquarium
  • 15.1. Planted Aquariums in Depth
  • 15.10. Hybrid Planted Aquariums
  • 15.11. Many Fish Many Plants
  • 15.12. Propagating Plants
  • 15.13. Hau Planted Aquariums
  • 15.14. Low Tech Planted Aquariums
  • 15.15. Sterilizing Plants
  • 15.16. Natural Aquarium
  • 15.17. Father Fish Aquariums
  • 15.2. Fish
  • 15.3. Fish Limitations
  • 15.4. Types of Planted Tanks
  • 15.4.1. Planted Aquarium Examples
  • 15.5. Aquarium Fertilizing
  • 15.5.1. Ready Made Fertilizers
  • 15.5.2. Fertilizer Programs
  • 15.5.3. Estimative Index
  • 15.5.4. NH4 and Tabs Fertilizer
  • 15.5.5. DIY Epiphytic Fertilizer
  • 15.5.6. Fish Food Fertilizer
  • 15.5.7. DIY Fertilizers
  • 15.6. Carbon Dioxide
  • 15.6.1. Low Tech CO2
  • 15.6.2. KH pH CO2 Relationships
  • 15.6.3. High Tech CO2 Systems  
  • 15.6.4. CO2 From Food
  • 15.6.5. Liquid CO2
  • 15.6.6. Measuring CO2
  • 15.7. Plant Substrates
  • 15.8. Walstad Aquarium
  • 15.9. High Tech Planted Aquariums
  • 16. Aquarium Algae
  • 16.1. Algae Biology
  • 16.10. Water Mold
  • 16.10.1. White Fuzz
  • 16.11. Slime Mold
  • 16.12. Red Spot Algae
  • 16.13. A Few Oddities
  • 16.2. Controlling Algae
  • 16.2.1. Algae in Fish Only Tanks
  • 16.2.2. Algae in High Tech Tanks
  • 16.2.3. Algae in Low Tech Tanks
  • 16.2.4. Algae Eaters
  • 16.2.5. The Algae War
  • 16.2.6. Chemical Algae Control
  • 16.2.7. Chihiros Doctor
  • 16.3. Thread Algae
  • 16.4. Blue-Green Algae
  • 16.5. Black Beard Algae
  • 16.6. Staghorn Algae
  • 16.7. Aquarium Green Water
  • 16.8. Brown Algae
  • 16.9. Green Spot Algae
  • 17. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 17.1. Native Water Chemistries
  • 17.10. Aquarium Shrimp
  • 17.11. Discus
  • 17.11.1. Discus Husbandry
  • 17.11.2. Filtration for Discus
  • 17.11.3. Water for Discus
  • 17.11.4. Food for Discus
  • 17.11.5. Discus Pheromones
  • 17.11.6. Breeding Discus
  • 17.11.7. Discus Photos
  • 17.12. Axolotl
  • 17.2. Biotopes
  • 17.2.1. Blackwater Biotope
  • 17.3. Blackwater Fish
  • 17.4. Lake Malawi Cichlids
  • 17.4.1. Malawi Aquariums
  • 17.5. Goldfish
  • 17.5.1. Types of Goldfish
  • 17.5.2. Size of Goldfish
  • 17.5.3. Stocking Goldfish
  • 17.5.4. Goldfish Care
  • 17.6. Guppies and Livebearers
  • 17.7. Aquarium Bettas
  • 17.8 Oscars
  • 17.9. Nano Aquarium
  • 18. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 18.1. Aquarium Water Changes
  • 18.1.1. Water Changes in Depth
  • 18.1.2. Aquarium Water Change Math
  • 18.1.3. Water Change Water
  • 18.1.4. Softened, RO, DI, TDS
  • 18.2. Drip Water Changes
  • 18.3. Cleaning the Substrate
  • 18.4. Cleaning a Filter
  • 18.5. Heavy Stocked Maintenance
  • 18.6. Old Tank Syndrome
  • 18.7. Sick Tank Syndrome
  • 2. Aquarium Cycling
  • 2.1. Fish-less Cycling
  • 2.10. Nitrogen Cycle
  • 2.11. Inoculate for Cycling
  • 2.12. Beneficial Bacteria
  • 2.13. Cycling Test
  • 2.14. The Mature Aquarium
  • 2.15. Cycling a Planted Aquarium
  • 2.2. Many Ways to Cycle
  • 2.3. How I Cycle
  • 2.4. Cycling with Ammonia
  • 2.4.1. Dr. Tim’s Cycling Method
  • 2.5. Aquarium Fish-in Cycling
  • 2.5.1. Fish-in Cycling Science
  • 2.5.2. Rapid Fish-in Cycling
  • 2.6. Not Cycling at All
  • 2.7. New Tank Syndrome
  • 2.8. Bacteria-in-a-bottle
  • 2.8.1. Bacteria in a Bottle in Depth
  • 2.8.2. Sludge Removing Bacteria
  • 2.9. Instant Cycling Chemicals
  • 3. Fish Food
  • 3.1. Insignificance of Food
  • 3.1.1. Fish Food Science
  • 3.2. Fish Diet Specializations
  • 3.3. Amount of Fish Food
  • 3.3.1. Amount in Depth
  • 3.4. Gel Fish Food
  • 3.5. Breaking Up Food
  • 3.6. Dry Fish Food
  • 3.6.1. Dry Fish Food in Depth
  • 3.7. Banned Fish Food
  • 3.8. Food and Malawi Bloat
  • 3.9. Fish Food and Gunk
  • 4. Temperature, pH, KH and GH
  • 4.1. Importance of Water
  • 4.10. ORP or Redox
  • 4.11. Tank Syndromes
  • 4.2. Aquarium Temperatures
  • 4.3. Free Floating Bacteria
  • 4.4. Aquarium pH
  • 4.4.1. Aquarium pH is Not Important
  • 4.4.2. Buffering the Water
  • 4.4.3. Carbon Dioxide and pH
  • 4.4.4. Dropping pH
  • 4.4.5. Raising pH
  • 4.5. Water Hardness
  • 4.5.1. General Hardness
  • 4.5.2. Carbonate Hardness
  • 4.5.2.1. KH and Cycling
  • 4.6. Salts in the Water
  • 4.6.1. Trace Additives
  • 4.7. Fish Tolerance to pH
  • 4.8. “Stability” isn’t Important
  • 4.8.1. Rapid Thermal and pH Shifts
  • 4.9. Un-bagging Fish
  • 5. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Chlorine
  • 5.2. Safe Ammonia Levels
  • 5.2.1. Ammonia in Depth
  • 5.2.3. High Ammonia
  • 5.3. Safe Nitrite Levels
  • 5.3.2. Nitrite in More Depth
  • 5.4. Safe Nitrate Levels
  • 5.4.1. Nitrate in Depth
  • 5.5. Chlorine and Chloramine
  • 5.5.1. Chlorination in Depth
  • 5.5.2. Chloramines
  • 5.5.2.1. Ammonia in Chloramine
  • 5.5.3. Water Conditioners
  • 5.5.3.1. Ammonia Detoxifying
  • 5.5.3.2. Prime and Safe
  • 5.5.3.2.1. Prime, Safe and Ammonia
  • 5.5.3.2.2. Prime, Safe and Cycling
  • 5.5.3.2.3. Prime, Safe and Sodium Dithionite
  • 5.5.3.2.4. Prime, Safe and Chloramine
  • 5.5.3.2.5. Prime Concentration
  • 5.5.3.2.6. Safe Cannot be Made into Prime
  • 5.5.3.3. Conditioner Chemistry
  • 5.5.3.4. Cost of Conditioners
  • 5.5.3.5. Conditioner Testing
  • 5.5.3.6. Review of Conditioners
  • 5.5.4. Stress Coat Products
  • 6. Filtration
  • 6.1. Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.1.1. Cleaned Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.1.2. Uncleaned Mechanical Filtration
  • 6.2. Biofiltration
  • 6.2.1. Detritus Explained
  • 6.2.2. Brown Gunk
  • 6.2.3. Cloudy Water
  • 6.3. Over-filtration
  • 6.4. Crystal-Clear Water
  • 6.4.1. Crystal-Clear Water in Depth
  • 6.4.2. Polishing Filtration
  • 6.5. Water Flow Rate
  • 6.5.1. Flow Function
  • 6.5.2. Substrate as a Filter
  • 6.6. Aquaponic Filtration
  • 6.7. Nitrate Factory
  • 6.8. Thorough Cleaning
  • 6.8.1. Filter Cleaning Tests
  • 6.9. Tap Water Rinsing
  • 7. Filter Media
  • 7.1. Review of Media
  • 7.1.1. Cost of Filter Media
  • 7.1.2. Media Function
  • 7.1.3. Filter Media Test
  • 7.1.3.1. Ammonia Oxidizing Test
  • 7.1.3.2. Water Clarity Test
  • 7.2. Individual Media List
  • 7.2.1. Polyester Floss
  • 7.2.10. Growstone
  • 7.2.11. Ceramics
  • 7.2.12. Matrix
  • 7.2.13. Clay Balls
  • 7.2.14. BioHome Filter Media
  • 7.2.2. Foam Media
  • 7.2.3. K1 Media
  • 7.2.4. Pumice Perlite
  • 7.2.5. Gravel
  • 7.2.6. PP EVA Pads
  • 7.2.7. Bio Balls
  • 7.2.8. Pot Scrubbers
  • 7.2.9. Lava Rock
  • 7.3. Media Volume
  • 7.4. Chemical Filtration Media
  • 7.4.2. Activated Carbon
  • 7.4.3. Ion-Exchange Resins
  • 7.4.4. Zeolite
  • 7.4.5. Phosphate Remover
  • 7.4.6. Purigen
  • 7.4.7. Poly-Filter
  • 7.4.8. Chemi-pure
  • 7.5. Denitrifying Media
  • 7.6. Media Surface Area
  • 8. Review of Aquarium Filters
  • 8.1. Review of Filters
  • 8.1.1. Filter Test
  • 8.2. Hang-on-the-back Filters
  • 8.3. Canister Filter
  • 8.3.1. Canisters in Depth
  • 8.3.2. Do-it-yourself Canisters
  • 8.3.3. FX Series Canister Filters
  • 8.4. Sponge Filters
  • 8.5. Under Gravel Filters
  • 8.5.1. Under-Gravels in Depth
  • 8.5.2. DIY Undergravel Filter
  • 8.6. Sump Filters
  • 8.6.1. Sumps in Depth
  • 8.6.2. Static Sump Filters
  • 8.6.3. Trickle Filters
  • 8.6.4. Wet-Dry Filters
  • 8.6.5. Fluidized Beds
  • 8.6.6. Do-it-yourself Sumps
  • 8.6.7. Foam Sump
  • 8.7. Other Filters
  • 8.7.1. Sand Filters
  • 8.7.2. High Performance Filters
  • 8.7.3. Hamburg Matten Filter
  • 8.7.4. Diatomaceous Earth Filters
  • 8.7.5. DIY Bottle Filters
  • 8.7.6. Small Filters
  • 8.7.7. Bottom of the Tank Matten
  • 8.7.8. Small DIY Filters
  • 8.8. Filter and Media Design
  • 8.8.1. Sizing Filters in Depth
  • 8.9. Anaerobic Reactors
  • 8.9.1. Biocenosis Reactor
  • 8.9.2. A Feasible Reactor
  • 8.9.3. Assimilatory Denitrification
  • 9. Aeration
  • 9.1. Aeration in Depth
  • 9.2. Turbulence and Aeration
  • 9.3. Air Stones
  • 9.3.2. Cleaning Air Stones
  • 9.4. Skimmers and Spray Bars
  • 9.5. Aeration and Temperature
  • 97. Author
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  • 1. Aquarium Basics
  • 2. Aquarium Cycling
  • 3. Fish Food
  • 4. Temperature, pH, KH and GH
  • 5. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Chlorine
  • 6. Filtration
  • 7. Filter Media
  • 8. Aquarium Filters
  • 9. Aeration
  • 10. Diseases
  • 11. Fish Disease Symptoms
  • 12. Treatment
  • 13. Stocking
  • 14. Equipment
  • 15. Planted Aquarium
  • 16. Aquarium Algae
  • 17. Aquarium Fish Selection
  • 18. Aquarium Maintenance
  • 97. Author